Friday, August 18, 2006

Images from Blyde River Canyon

Last weekend I went on a fabulous road trip with 2 new girlfriends to Blyde River Canyon in South Africa. Unfortunately these friends are like most of the people I meet here - temporary residents of Mozambique - but we certainly doing what is possible in the relatively short time these girls are in town.

Blyde River Canyon is the 3rd largest in the world and is about a 4 hour drive from Maputo. One of my new friends drove the car on the way there, and I drove most of the way back. It was not nearly as traumatic as my first experience driving on the left nearly a year ago. I actually did quite well and felt pretty comfortable behind the wheel. The experience did loads for my confidence, and I'm at the point now where I could imagine renting a car and driving it myself and not totally freaking out!

As we drove, we stopped at various scenic lookouts along the way. This particular one was called Berlin Falls. I'm terrible at estimating heights but this waterfall was really, really high. The most striking thing was that the river that forms the falls appears to be totally stagnant. If it weren't for the veil of rushing water and the accompanying sound, you'd never know this wasn't just a still wading pool.

We stayed in a lodge inside the Blyde River Canyon national park. It was very comfortable, and cheap - less than $100 for a 2-bedroom chalet with a kitchen and bathroom. The room also came equipped with a fierce troop of baboons outside the front door. As we were unloading the truck upon arrival, my friend left one of the doors ajar while she wrangled with her suitcase. In the front seat, she'd left a partially eaten pack of peanuts. The baboons were able to smell the peanuts and one actually hopped inside the truck, stole the plastic package, and ran off onto the lawn to chow down! At this point the other baboons became really curious and started to try and get into the vehicle. One of them was even cheeky enough to try and attack my friend - who is very petite and managed to defend herself with the lid of a trash bin just outside the front door of the chalet!

After that adventure, we decided it was high time for some calm and we went to the lookout point to catch the sunset. It was amazing, and we were the only people around!!

The next morning woke up at 5:45 and set out on a 4-hour hike called the Leopard Trail. Again we were the only people on the trail. We didn't see any leopards, but we did see their scat. We also ran across a couple of monkeys and some baboons, but they weren't nuisance animals like the ones closer to the lodge. The canyon was full of mist and clouds, somewhat obscuring the view but keeping the air nice and chilly as we hiked. After about 1.5 hours going down into the canyon, we came across this magnificent lookout.

We hiked for another hour or so and almost reached the bottom of the canyon. Since we had to leave for Mozambique that same morning, we had to cut the hike short (otherwise we would have made it all the way to the huge river below). The way up was quite an adventure - we climbed almost vertical walls next to a waterfuall nearly the entire time, getting our feet soaking wet on several boulder-hopping river crossings.

Thankfully we made it back with few casualties. One of my friends cut her shin on a stump, and the other got some blisters from her wet socks rubbing in her shoes. My only problem was that my fingers went numb soon after we started the hike and remained that way for most of the time. I have Reynaud's Syndrome (just like my mom), and my friends got a kick out of seeing my fingers completely white in the absence of blood, then watch as they turned bright pink as the circulation returned about 10 minutes before we finished the hike.

Here we managed to balance the camera on a rock and take a self portrait with one of the canyon's upper walls in the background.

After the hike we packed up and headed back to the border with a very quick pit stop in Nelspruit. We hit the grocery store and I bought 10 kilos of cat chow, 10 kilos of cat litter, several packages of wet kitten food and a family pack of toilet paper. Fun stuff. Unfortunately we didn't have enough time to stop by bizarre-o Whole Foods or any of the home decorating shops. No worries, though, I'm headed back to the original land of consumer delights in just 12 days.

Did you get that? I go home in 12 days!! And not only do I get to see my family, I get to see Ricardo!! When I have tough moments these days, all I have to think about is sitting down with family and my love to eat a big plate of green chile chicken enchiladas and all is good in my world again!

23 comments:

Amber said...

Wow wow wow!! That just looks AMAZING! You make me want to hope on a plane. I bet the pictures don't even do it justice.

:)

Anonymous said...

Beautiful pictures! Sounds like an amazing time!

Michelle said...

OH WOW. That is all I can think of to say. You are living heaven.

Deirdre said...

I just can't imagine how this place looked in person. Holy smokes! What an adventure you're having.

Alina said...

Ok, that is truly amazing! And the baboon hoping in the car was hillarious! Seems you are having lots of fun, which makes me a little envious. I would give anything for a proper mountain hike one of these days.

Kristine said...

I love the photos! Sounds like a great time. I am overwhelmed by what you simply experience in an average day!

Safiya Outlines said...

12 days! That will go so quickly, I'm so excited for you.

Gorgeous photos, as usual ;)

Narrator said...

I'm sorry -- yes, beautiful pictures -- but the one of you and your friend on that peak of rock is terrifying. I wanted to reach into the screen and grab the both of you. Oh my god...what if you'd lost balance? Jesus, I can't even look at it again.

Masood Ahmed said...

Fabulous, Fantastic, Fotos.

Ali Ambrosio said...

~Amber - You're right, the pictures don't even come close to capturing what an amazing place it is.

~Mand - Thanks, it was a great time.

~Michelle - I must remind myself of this more often...I am living heaven!!

~Deirdre - Yeah, it was along the lines of the Grand Canyon in terms of the 'wow' factor.

~Alina - You have no idea how hard we laughed, once the initial scare from the baboons was over.

~Kristine - Sometimes I am overwhelmed, too, but in a good way.

~Safiya - I'm counting the days and hope that the time passes quickly. I'm sure it will, as I have many things to finish before I travel.

~Non Vocabulum - Yep, it would have been quite a spectacular way to go should one of us have teetered off that rock. Crouched down like that wasn't particularly scary, but stretched up and standing in the meditation-yoga-type photo really got my heart pounding.

Ali Ambrosio said...

~Masd - Thanks!!

Mauricio said...

Ali, sos loca!!

Tudo bem? Lindas fotos do seu passeio, que natureza maravilhosa!

Tremenda experiência de vida estar morando num lugar tão diferente, né? Muito legal vc mostrar isso no blog.

Sim, em espenhol o melhor xingamentto que há, lá puta que te parió (tem que puxar bem o ó)

Eu escrevi em Inglês, mas não tenho certeza se está correto.

abs

Bibi said...

Stunning pix! Sounds as though you had/are having fun.

_+*Ælitis*+_ said...

Paradisiac !!!! :)

La Fuerza Artemis said...

HI! Thanks for the comment! You're a blogger MASTER! Haha. So many posts and visits, I'll be sure to read some of them soon. It'll make the reading a lot more enjoyable knowing that you're from the 505! By the way, I loooove Austin. My sister lives there. My brother moved back to New Mexico a couple of years ago. This is going to be an exciting blogger friendship. :)

Artic said...

Great photos!!

Kisses.

Bilal said...

Africa rocks!
SA especially!
12 days or whatever can never be enough- you need to spend months here:-P

Ali Ambrosio said...

~Mauricio - Sim, eu vi a versão em inglês tb. Pena que a gente não existe expressão equivalente mesmo - é uma das minhas favoritas! hahah.

~Bibi - Thanks for stopping by. Yes, it is a lot of fun being here. Also frustrating, lonely, exciting...a million other things at the same time.

~Elite - E quando é que vens cá para estes lados???

~La Fuerza - Well it looks like we have several things in common. Glad you liked the turquoise pendant from my other post. I think you are the only other NM blogger that I know. Thanks for stopping by my blog.

~Hugo - Gracias, linda!

~Bilal - Yeah, I'd definitely second that: Africa rocks!! The 12 days I was referring to is now 8. 8 days until I go back to New Mexico and California, to stay for 3 weeks vacation. I agree that 12 days is not nearly enough for a proper stay in any country!

paris parfait said...

Fabulous photos! Sounds like you had so much fun! And how wonderful that soon you'll be home with your family and R! What a homecoming that will be! Have a green chile chicken enchilada for me - just thinking about it makes me homesick for Santa Fe.

Monkey McWearingChaps said...

Amazing photographs!!!

I'm with Non Vocab, heights make me crazy but it would probably be worth it to experience beauty like that.

Laini Taylor said...

What an amazing place! And baboons! Wow, life here seems so boring all of a sudden. A cat I had never seen before tried to get into my house last night. That's MY equivalent of the baboon story. Ha!

Ali Ambrosio said...

~Paris Parfai - I know, I can't wait! Just thinking about all that good food makes my mouth water.

~Monkey - The height was totally worth it. Thanks for stopping by!

~Laini - There is a random cat that comes into my dad's house every so often through the cat door to help himself to the cat chow. He's a wild thing, and it can be pretty exciting. No need for baboons, let me tell you.

Marcia (123 blog) said...

Hi there
I'm from South Africa - Johannesburg actually and Mpumalanga (Sabie, Graskop, Byde River Canyon area) is one of my absolute favourite holiday destinations. It's also only 4 hours from Jhb so is a nice distance for a long weekend.

The scenery is just stunning - we always get the most beautiful weather up there.

Anyway, the real reason I'm commenting is I get that same thing with my hands. Is that what it's called - Reynaud's? I get so freaked out when that happens. It makes me feel like I'm the walking dead.