Day Trip to Slovenia: History, Nature and Wine

The region where my grandmother's family is from is right on the border of Italy and Slovenia, which makes for easy cross-cultural day tripping. Several of my childhood friends are Slovene and now work in the wine industry and/or as tour guides. My mom and I spent an afternoon in the able hands of Aleks and Marjana and enjoyed some spectacular nature, history, and local wines.

We started by climbing a spiral staircase belvedere tower in the tiny village of Gonjace. Not for those with fear of heights, but the reward is 360-degree views of the Collio hills, vineyards, terra-cotta roofs, and depending on which way you are looking either the Alps or the Adriatic.

At the top of the belvedere is this compass that shows the direction of the nearby towns and cities. I have a thing for compasses, if you didn't know. :)

Our next stop was Smartno, a historic fortified village that has been beautifully restored.

My friend Alex told us many stories about the culture of the place - like the wreath of dried wildflowers on the door that would have signified there is a single woman at the house who is eligible for marriage...or the importance of having greenery and a grapevine in front of the house.

I first met Aleks and his sister Marjana we were little kids. It's so cool to see where we all are now, and how many of our interests and occupations are aligned. Aleks is a history enthusiast, personal trainer, and regional tour guide who speaks multiple languages.

Aleks took us to a hidden gem in the Brda region of the Slovenian countryside. We drove along a dirt road through grape fields and into the winter forest, and eventually came upon this clear pool with a waterfall. The water spills over a wall that apparently was built by the French during Napoleon's occupation in the late 1700's or early 1800's.

Walking down a small path from the main waterfall, you reach the truly impressive sight: another small waterfall and a natural stone bridge with dark emerald water running underneath. The water color in this part of the world is unreal - either intense deep green or milky turquoise blue - thanks to the karst limestone that makes up most of the river beds. What a gem!

After our nature walk, we headed to the wine cellar (cantina) where Marjana works. It is a large facility but still feels very personal and authentic, especially when you have an inside connection. :)

We got to tour the special reserve cellar that houses something crazy like 80,000 bottles of vintage wine, some dating back to the 1960's. Imagine being able to pick one bottle at random and taste what is inside!

Here I am with Marjana amid oak barrels. She and I are brainstorming some wine tourism ideas: stay tuned, especially if you are interested in visiting this region of the world.

Venice: Day 3

My third day in Venice started at the crack of dawn for a little running tourism with Venice by Run. Following the instructions I'd been given via email, I made my way to Campo San Bartolomeo at 6:50am. The city was completely deserted and it was a special thrill to be out at that hour, like I was on a secret mission of some sort. Arriving at the meeting point, I immediately spotted my guide Giulia (not hard because she was the only other person around and we were wearing nearly identical neon pink jackets). I couldn't believe it!

If you enjoy running and are in Venice, I can't recommend this enough. You get to experience the major tourist points of the city with nobody else around, plus a wealth of information about the history and culture, and all the insider tips you could hope for about where to eat and drink and hang out like a local...not to mention a good workout!

After the run, I had breakfast and then went out for my daily wander. This piece of street art caught my eye on the way to Accademia. What a complicated relationship tourism destinations have with tourists. Can't stand them, can't manage to live without them.

It started raining again, and I eventually made my way to the Peggy Guggenheim museum to take refuge from the dreary weather. I found much inspiration in the collection (which I will share in another post) but one of the things that I most loved seeing was this group of children touring the museum. So important to expose young people to art! 

I had a Table for One lunch at the museum cafe (an easy solo lunch, especially since I sat at a bar with a window seat). I enjoyed a salad with red radicchio from Treviso, pecorino cheese, and walnuts plus the ubiquitous bread basket that accompanies all meals in Italy. The courtyard view and people watching made it a truly enjoyable meal.

After the museum visit, I went wandering again. As I learned in my morning run with Giulia, there are a few campos in Venice that still remain true to the roots of that word: small fields/patches of vegetation in a courtyard square. 

I continued my walk along the Zattere, the old timber delivery area of the city that is now a spacious promenade with breathtaking views. This decorated crane caught my eye - I wonder what it is used for, and whether it is common practice to decorate industrial machinery in Venice.

Around the corner from the Zattere is a gondola building workshop housed in a very old building, even for Venice standards. I love the collection of hats on the wall.

One of the things I really wanted to do while in Venice was eat cichetti (local version of tapas) and have a spritz (local preferred happy hour drink). The famous Cantine del Vino già Schiavi was nearby the gondola workshop and absolutely packed with people, so I ducked in and made my way to the counter.

The small bar and bottle shop didn't disappoint with its ambience or selection of cichetti. I tried two bruschetta-style toasts: one with creamed cod and the other with egg salad topped with edible flowers. And of course an aperol spritz. I enjoyed eavesdropping on multiple conversations while having my happy hour treats.

I had time for one more stop in the afternoon, so I headed to the Cà Rezzonico, an absolutely impressive palazzo that houses the museum of 18th century Venice. My jaw dropped at the luxury of the architecture and interior furnishings, starting with the internal courtyard in the entryway.

At Cà Rezzonico I saw perhaps the most lavish and intricate chandelier I've ever set eyes on. That glasswork and colors and flowers!! Surreal.

There are three floors of priceless art at the palazzo, but the piece that stood out the most for me was this marble bust of a veiled woman by Antonio Corradini (1725). How on earth can somebody create such perfection from stone? That drapery is so perfect and gauze-like and yet you can still see her expression underneath. Unreal.

After viewing all the old masters at the palazzo, I had to rush back across the city to the Teatro la Fenice for a concert I'd purchased a ticket for prior to leaving the US (seemed like a guaranteed good activity for a solo traveler). I shared a box seat with a German lady and and a very funny older Italian woman whose daughter was playing trumpet in the orchestra. Definitely a worthwhile experience, and a stellar way to end my third day in Venice.

Venice: Day 1

Back in 2005 I was visiting my grandmother's house in rural northern Italy with friend from college. It was the dead of winter, all of the local shops and attractions were closed for the low season, and we had nothing to do other than sit around and help my grandmother sort through accumulated old mail and paperwork.

After several days of boredom, my friend suggested we go to Venice, about a 2 hour train ride away. Although it seemed like exactly the kind of adventure we needed, I convinced him we shouldn't go. Why? Because I was afraid to venture out of my comfort zone and fail as a traveler. The unknown was too overwhelming: not knowing where to park the car at the train station or how to validate our tickets, fear of getting lost upon arrival, of being vulnerable to scams, of having a crappy touristy experience and not the authentic locals-only adventure I so craved (but was unable to seek out for myself, much less be the leader for the two of us). So we stayed put, and I felt a mix of defeat and guilt and sadness which I tried to hide from my friend.

Now, just over a decade later, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to slay the dragon. This trip to Italy, I'd scheduled in a week alone after spending two weeks at the family house with my mom. I started planning a solo trip to Venice, ready to deal with all those fears and see if I could enjoy my own company even if I stuck out as a tourist and made all the mistakes.

The journey started on the autostrada, as our family friend Marino suggested that I drive instead of take the train. Immediately I had a fear-conquering opportunity as it was pissing down rain and the two lane highway was full of big trucks and on-your-ass drivers. Thankfully I had a good reggae soundtrack and just kept my knee aligned down the middle of the lane (my dad's number one best driving tip ever) and the windshield wipers on high.

After about an hour and forty minutes I arrived at Piazzale Roma, the place where the highway dead-ends after the long causeway over the lagoon (no cars in Venice, obviously). I chose a garage and handed over the keys (Garage San Marco, 30 Euro per night). Good thing I only had a small roller suitcase and a purse because it was freezing, super windy, and raining hard. I could barely manage my bags, hold my umbrella, and look at my map every five seconds. My hands went numb from the cold and I wished I had a lot warmer jacket and more layers. The cold in Northern Italy in the winter is NO JOKE. But I managed to get on the Vaporetto #2, bust out my emergency stock of hand warmers (essential item this trip!), and enjoy the ride down the Grand Canal to San Marco stop.

I'd booked a single room at Hotel Becher, near the historic Teatro La Fenice, and set out to find my way. I quickly learned that Venice is a labyrinth of narrow streets and canals, and you most definitely need a map in your hand at all times. Formal addresses are devoid of information, listing only the neighborhood (sestiere) and a number. Happily there are actual street names painted on the sides of buildings, plus handy directional arrows pointing you toward landmarks. 

I eventually found the hotel, checked in, and took refuge in my super warm room. What a relief to be inside, away from the horrific weather. The room was small but comfortable, and there was a canal view that made up for the few amenities that I actually missed (most notably an in-room coffee maker or tea kettle). Also, that canal means lots of noise - tourists and singing gondoliers at all hours, trash boats, water taxis. I'd say earplugs are a must-have on the list for travel to Venice, especially if you are a light sleeper or have any desire to open the window and let in fresh air. 

After getting settled in the room and warming up my extremities, I decided to venture out and get some lunch. My first experience with a "Table for one" at a nice restaurant. I wandered the maze of streets near the hotel and eventually decided on a cute place called Rosa Rossa on Calle Mandola. I had spaghetti al nero di sepia (spaghetti with squid ink and calamari pieces) and a glass of red wine, and enjoyed journaling while I waited for my food.

In the afternoon, I visited the museum at Palazzo Fortuny. It was a total sensory delight, with a dark interior and art displayed in front of floor-to-ceiling damask textiles. Also, the museum was pretty empty which added to the feeling of having stepped back into another era. 

One of my favorite spaces was Fortuny's atelier. Can you imagine having this as your go-to place to paint and sculpt? Divine, to say the least!

I also appreciated seeing all the block prints and samples for Fortuny's famous textile design. Endless inspiration for creating patterns. I highly recommend visiting this museum if you are at all into interior design, fashion, and fabric.

I spent the rest of my first day in Venice aimlessly wandering, which is one of my very favorite things to do in a new city. The rain made it a pretty miserable, but the light was magic for taking photos and there weren't hordes of people in the streets.

Around every corner was a perfect photo opportunity: crumbling walls, faded paint, narrow streets, architectural elements from multiple centuries, flower boxes, colorful storefronts, and seemingly endless carved details and embellishments and layers of art. 

The best part by far was the lack of crowds. And that rainy evening light! Totally worth enduring the suck weather.

After several hours of walking and photographing, I was ready for another meal. I chose a place called Le Chat Qui Rit that is a wine bar and restaurant on Calle Tron, in San Marco district. Another "Table for one, please!"

This was possibly my best meal in Venice: I ordered branzino with a mix of cooked and raw asparagus, caramelized onions, and a presentation that was pure art. I also enjoyed a glass of pro secco and some local sauvignon blanc by a maker called Attems. The service was friendly, the atmosphere was lively, and I felt welcome to hang out as long as I liked. In fact, if I had to make a recommendation of where to go as a solo eater for a nice meal in Venice, Le Chat Qui Rit would be my number one choice.

I ended the day feeling full, warm, and satisfied with the day's exploring and adventures. I tried to sleep despite lingering jet lag and the noisy canal. Next up: Day 2!

Angel in the Bay

We had a visit last week from my college best friend Angel and her man João. They live in Houston, he is Portuguese, she is ridícula. :) Angel and I have been friends for 16 years and through thick and thin. I love when she visits because I feel so totally like myself! It was her birthday, and she got engaged, and we all had a great time hanging out.

Douro Valley

First impressions: Rural, quiet, the kind of place where it seems you've stepped back in time.

Tourism wins: Endless terraced vineyards, picturesque river views, all the good Portuguese port and wine the heart could desire.

Fails: A winding road that will make you wish for some dramamine. Also, beware that most wineries stop their tours for an extended lunchtime break, ending at noon and only resuming at 2:30pm.

If you go there do this: Visit Quinta da Pacheca winery, boutique hotel, and restaurant. It is a really stunning location and I would love to stay there next time we visit the region.

Food and drink highlights: The bacalhau (codfish) at Quinta da Pacheca.

Interesting observations: The Douro valley reminded me a lot of Peci, the little village where my family is from in Italy. Not so much in the scenery, but in the general feel of the place, the vegetation, the crumbling stone walls and old farmhouses, the persistent dampness in the air, the slow pace of seemingly everything.

A selection of photos below...