Venice: Island Hopping on Afternoon of Day 2

Taking advantage of the clear, dry weather I decided to visit the islands of Burano and Murano on the afternoon of my second day in Venice. I bought a multi-stop vaporetto ticket and boarded line 12 at Fondamenta Nove, just a short walk from the Gesuiti church. If you look all the way in the distance you can see the snow-covered Alps.

Riding the vaporetto is an ideal sightseeing method. We passed in front of the cemetery island (Isola di San Michele),  several small uninhabited islands with abandoned buildings in ruin, and made stops at Murano and Mazzorbo islands (at the latter there is a restaurant and boutique hotel called Venissa that I'd really like to try in the future, a proponent of "zero-kilometer sourcing"...sadly it was closed for the season).

After about 45 minutes on the boat we arrived at Burano, the island famous for its lace making tradition and brightly colored houses. I didn't focus much on the lace (I already have bags and bags of antique handmade lace from my family that I struggle to put to use) rather I spent my visit looking at the colors and taking photos.

Yes, Burano is touristy but it is possible to find some space to yourself, especially in the off season. All you need to do is take a few turns away from the main strip and start exploring. The palette and composition of this archway caught my eye, and from there I found a quiet series of back streets.

The repetition of rectangles, crumbling plaster, and marble crest on this façade hit all the right notes. I wished the business had been open, I was very curious about who and what went on inside.

I'd been to Burano once before, as a child, and I remember being bowled over by all the colors. Apparently there is an architectural preservation code in place and people have to maintain the hue of their house or building in a way that is faithful to history.

After a solid hour of exploring and photography, it was time for a late lunch. I found an outdoor cafe near the base of the church bell tower and ordered a grilled calamari salad and a glass of pinot grigio. Perfection!

The next stop on my island itinerary was Murano, the heart of Venice's centuries-old glass making tradition. I wasn't able to tour any of the factories due to the late hour, but I hope to do a fornace visit on a future trip.

There is a major connection between my jewelry work and Murano glass: this is the origin of many of the trade beads that were taken to Africa by the Portuguese. It blows my mind to realize that it was right here, 200-400 years ago, that artisans were making beads that would cross the world, be lost to sea because of shipwrecks, wash up on the beaches of Mozambique Island, be collected by local boys, and end up in my jewelry here in California...their destiny to be continued by the eventual wearer of the piece. The essence of Origins & Routes.

I enjoyed seeing this massive blue glass sculpture near the factories, a dose of contemporary art to contrast with all the history and remind us that this tradition is not dead. Although it is increasingly difficult to sustain, as is the case all around the world with artisanal production. Venice is full of cheap Chinese imports, and one must be careful not to buy knockoffs thinking they are original Murano glass.

I walked around the island for about an hour, and as the sun dipped down the photography became golden. The light on these boats was simply perfect.

In the absence of direct light, you get an even greater appreciation for all the colors on the buildings. I could have spent an eternity sitting on that red bench and taking in the atmosphere, but alas I had a ferry to catch.

The timing of my vaporetto ride back to Venice was impeccable. I watched the sky and water slowly shift from blue to gray, silhouetting the city in the distance. Seagulls dipped and dived all around the boat, fellow riders chatted in a dozen different languages, and I pulled my hood up tight around my face, a cocoon of warmth against the wind and sea spray.  

Venice: Morning of Day 2

My second day in Venice was blessed with sunshine, blue skies, and still somehow a relatively empty city. While wandering near Campo Manin, I followed some signs through a series of tight streets and came upon the Scala Contarini del Bovolo. I turned a corner and there it was, the most incredible spiral tower rising from a quiet garden courtyard, bathed in morning light, with nobody else around. It truly felt like discovering hidden treasure.

The Scala del Bovolo (which means spiral staircase in local dialect) was built at the end of the 1400's and there is some uncertainty as to who the architect was. One of my favorite aspects of the tower is that its arches get progressively smaller, with the top arches being half the height of the ones at the base. This creates the visual illusion that the tower is even taller than it actually is.

I slowly climbed the spiral stairs, stopping to admire and photograph at each turn. What a treat to have this all to myself.

At the very top of the tower, there is a 360-degree view of Venice. I loved this angle with St. Mark's framed in one of the arches. As it was a clear day, I could even see all the way to the snow-covered Alps in the distance. This experience was such a gift.

After leaving the Palazzo Contarini, I made my way across the city to the Cannareggio district. Several months before my trip to Italy, I'd come across an image of a church on Instagram that left me drop-jawed: the Chiesa dei Gesuiti (aka Santa Maria Assunta). I am a big fan of rococo and all things overly ornamented, but this church really impressed me because of its exquisite patterned marble interior (which inspired Fortuny's most famous fabric design, among others).

The interior of the Gesuiti church didn't disappoint. How incredible were these craftsmen in the 1700's?? All of that marble patterning is inlay, done by hand. I've never seen anything like it in my life. What a breathtaking effect.

Before leaving, I lit a candle for the ladies in my life. This is a ritual that brings me peace and hope, despite not being Catholic. The first time I ever lit a candle in a church was in Athens, at age 17, with the mother of my friend Lambros. Ever since it's been something I enjoy, especially while traveling.

After all of that patterning and art and divinity, I needed a break. I found a small courtyard cafe in an adjacent building and took a moment for a macchiato and an apricot cookie. Again, I had the place to myself. The scene was so lovely that I decided to do a quick sketch. This was my favorite "Table for One" moment of the trip. Quiet, calm, challenging, and refreshing.

Next up? Island adventures in the afternoon of Day 2.

Venice: Day 1

Back in 2005 I was visiting my grandmother's house in rural northern Italy with friend from college. It was the dead of winter, all of the local shops and attractions were closed for the low season, and we had nothing to do other than sit around and help my grandmother sort through accumulated old mail and paperwork.

After several days of boredom, my friend suggested we go to Venice, about a 2 hour train ride away. Although it seemed like exactly the kind of adventure we needed, I convinced him we shouldn't go. Why? Because I was afraid to venture out of my comfort zone and fail as a traveler. The unknown was too overwhelming: not knowing where to park the car at the train station or how to validate our tickets, fear of getting lost upon arrival, of being vulnerable to scams, of having a crappy touristy experience and not the authentic locals-only adventure I so craved (but was unable to seek out for myself, much less be the leader for the two of us). So we stayed put, and I felt a mix of defeat and guilt and sadness which I tried to hide from my friend.

Now, just over a decade later, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to slay the dragon. This trip to Italy, I'd scheduled in a week alone after spending two weeks at the family house with my mom. I started planning a solo trip to Venice, ready to deal with all those fears and see if I could enjoy my own company even if I stuck out as a tourist and made all the mistakes.

The journey started on the autostrada, as our family friend Marino suggested that I drive instead of take the train. Immediately I had a fear-conquering opportunity as it was pissing down rain and the two lane highway was full of big trucks and on-your-ass drivers. Thankfully I had a good reggae soundtrack and just kept my knee aligned down the middle of the lane (my dad's number one best driving tip ever) and the windshield wipers on high.

After about an hour and forty minutes I arrived at Piazzale Roma, the place where the highway dead-ends after the long causeway over the lagoon (no cars in Venice, obviously). I chose a garage and handed over the keys (Garage San Marco, 30 Euro per night). Good thing I only had a small roller suitcase and a purse because it was freezing, super windy, and raining hard. I could barely manage my bags, hold my umbrella, and look at my map every five seconds. My hands went numb from the cold and I wished I had a lot warmer jacket and more layers. The cold in Northern Italy in the winter is NO JOKE. But I managed to get on the Vaporetto #2, bust out my emergency stock of hand warmers (essential item this trip!), and enjoy the ride down the Grand Canal to San Marco stop.

I'd booked a single room at Hotel Becher, near the historic Teatro La Fenice, and set out to find my way. I quickly learned that Venice is a labyrinth of narrow streets and canals, and you most definitely need a map in your hand at all times. Formal addresses are devoid of information, listing only the neighborhood (sestiere) and a number. Happily there are actual street names painted on the sides of buildings, plus handy directional arrows pointing you toward landmarks. 

I eventually found the hotel, checked in, and took refuge in my super warm room. What a relief to be inside, away from the horrific weather. The room was small but comfortable, and there was a canal view that made up for the few amenities that I actually missed (most notably an in-room coffee maker or tea kettle). Also, that canal means lots of noise - tourists and singing gondoliers at all hours, trash boats, water taxis. I'd say earplugs are a must-have on the list for travel to Venice, especially if you are a light sleeper or have any desire to open the window and let in fresh air. 

After getting settled in the room and warming up my extremities, I decided to venture out and get some lunch. My first experience with a "Table for one" at a nice restaurant. I wandered the maze of streets near the hotel and eventually decided on a cute place called Rosa Rossa on Calle Mandola. I had spaghetti al nero di sepia (spaghetti with squid ink and calamari pieces) and a glass of red wine, and enjoyed journaling while I waited for my food.

In the afternoon, I visited the museum at Palazzo Fortuny. It was a total sensory delight, with a dark interior and art displayed in front of floor-to-ceiling damask textiles. Also, the museum was pretty empty which added to the feeling of having stepped back into another era. 

One of my favorite spaces was Fortuny's atelier. Can you imagine having this as your go-to place to paint and sculpt? Divine, to say the least!

I also appreciated seeing all the block prints and samples for Fortuny's famous textile design. Endless inspiration for creating patterns. I highly recommend visiting this museum if you are at all into interior design, fashion, and fabric.

I spent the rest of my first day in Venice aimlessly wandering, which is one of my very favorite things to do in a new city. The rain made it a pretty miserable, but the light was magic for taking photos and there weren't hordes of people in the streets.

Around every corner was a perfect photo opportunity: crumbling walls, faded paint, narrow streets, architectural elements from multiple centuries, flower boxes, colorful storefronts, and seemingly endless carved details and embellishments and layers of art. 

The best part by far was the lack of crowds. And that rainy evening light! Totally worth enduring the suck weather.

After several hours of walking and photographing, I was ready for another meal. I chose a place called Le Chat Qui Rit that is a wine bar and restaurant on Calle Tron, in San Marco district. Another "Table for one, please!"

This was possibly my best meal in Venice: I ordered branzino with a mix of cooked and raw asparagus, caramelized onions, and a presentation that was pure art. I also enjoyed a glass of pro secco and some local sauvignon blanc by a maker called Attems. The service was friendly, the atmosphere was lively, and I felt welcome to hang out as long as I liked. In fact, if I had to make a recommendation of where to go as a solo eater for a nice meal in Venice, Le Chat Qui Rit would be my number one choice.

I ended the day feeling full, warm, and satisfied with the day's exploring and adventures. I tried to sleep despite lingering jet lag and the noisy canal. Next up: Day 2!