I found this article the other day and thought it was exceptionally interesting, especially given that my Grammy had such a prominent career in preserving indigenous languages.
Grammy - click here to read the article.
Love you! (and love that you read my blog!)
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Changes in Maputo Since We Moved Here
Rico and I moved from Chimoio to Maputo in late January 2006, if I'm not mistaken. The city has really changed since our arrival - in my opinion, mostly in positive ways. Here are a few changes I can think of:
- putting up new (funcional!) traffic lights at major intersections, and better positioning them so you can actually see if it's green or red from your car without having to crank your neck out the window.
- repaving Av. 25 de Setembro in the baixa and putting up a median, thus ending the phenomenon of people parking their cars diagonally in the middle of the 2-lane busy street.
- painting lines on several roundabouts and major thoroughfares in an attempt to keep people in their lanes.
- work to control the erosion of the Marginal road, although this is a problem Maputo will have to contend with forever.
- the opening of the Maputo Shopping Center, bringing with it an assortment of overpriced shops, a nice food court, a big, relatively cheap grocery store targeting the Indian community (lots of spices and products you have to identify from photos on the wrapper because everything is in Arabic or Hindi), and a cinema with a tacky neon façade that has yet to open.
- a visible increase in Chinese presence, from construction sites to restaurants to the flight between Joburg and Maputo (last time we took it, at least 1/3 of the passengers were Chinese).
- increase in Brazilian presence, in particular due to companies like CVRD, Camargo Correa and now the opening of a Fiocruz office in Maupto to support the antiretroviral factory that supposedly will be operating by 2010.
- opening of the Polana Casino and accompanying restaurant - The Meat Co. - and nightclub - Sassas. Great food, random club, no comment on the casino facilities as gambling isn't something I've done here in Maputo.
- opening of Zambi, definitely one of the best, most reliable restaurants along with The Meat Co.
- decline in quality at Costa do Sol. When we first arrived in Maputo, it was our absolute favorite restaurant and we knew the manager and benefited from him ordering special seafood platters on our behalf. Now, apparently, the management has changed. It's still a good restaurant and certainly worth a visit due to its history, but there is better seafood to be had elsewhere, in my opinion.
- change in management at the restaurant at Hotel Terminus, definitely a change for the better. Maputo increasingly has several very good restaurants to choose from.
- opening of Café Sol, the first (and hopefully not the last) coffehouse in the city.
- new hotels in the city: VIP executive and the Arabian-themed one on Av. 24 de Julho.
- destruction of the abandoned Four Seasons hotel. We watched the big blast from Jenny's apartment, and Paco got it on tape, complete with me inadvertently yelling "Caralho!" at the sound of the explosion and subsequent collapse of the old concrete structure. Maputo's shoreline is certainly better off without that eyesore.
- booming residential construction, especially in Bairro Triunfo.
- increase in crime, though thankfully Maputo is still a relatively safe city, especially if compared to places like Rio or Joburg. There have been several carjackings and kidnappings in the last year, a change from the more petty pickpocketing and vehicle/home burgulary that usually plagues the city. I suppose this is one of the unavoidable consequences of growth, especially if the economic benefits don't trickle down to the majority of the population.
- increased food prices and transport cost. I keep wondering when the unsustainable solutions reached following the transport riots in February will start to break apart.
- more "luxury" options available in Maputo: day spas, massage parlors, pilates and yoga classes, etc.
- increase in rent prices. Now it's very difficult to get an apartment in a "good" neighborhood as an expat for less than US$800/month. It's not at all uncommon for a newer/remodeled 3-bedroom flat to go for US$2,500 - US$3,500 per month in these areas. Big houses can easily go for US$3,500 to US$4,500 per month. This is much more than I was paying in Austin, or certainly in New Mexico, and is nearly what rent is like in notoriously expensive cities like San Francisco and New York!
What other changes have you noticed lately in Maputo? Any contributions to this list in the comments are welcome!
- putting up new (funcional!) traffic lights at major intersections, and better positioning them so you can actually see if it's green or red from your car without having to crank your neck out the window.
- repaving Av. 25 de Setembro in the baixa and putting up a median, thus ending the phenomenon of people parking their cars diagonally in the middle of the 2-lane busy street.
- painting lines on several roundabouts and major thoroughfares in an attempt to keep people in their lanes.
- work to control the erosion of the Marginal road, although this is a problem Maputo will have to contend with forever.
- the opening of the Maputo Shopping Center, bringing with it an assortment of overpriced shops, a nice food court, a big, relatively cheap grocery store targeting the Indian community (lots of spices and products you have to identify from photos on the wrapper because everything is in Arabic or Hindi), and a cinema with a tacky neon façade that has yet to open.
- a visible increase in Chinese presence, from construction sites to restaurants to the flight between Joburg and Maputo (last time we took it, at least 1/3 of the passengers were Chinese).
- increase in Brazilian presence, in particular due to companies like CVRD, Camargo Correa and now the opening of a Fiocruz office in Maupto to support the antiretroviral factory that supposedly will be operating by 2010.
- opening of the Polana Casino and accompanying restaurant - The Meat Co. - and nightclub - Sassas. Great food, random club, no comment on the casino facilities as gambling isn't something I've done here in Maputo.
- opening of Zambi, definitely one of the best, most reliable restaurants along with The Meat Co.
- decline in quality at Costa do Sol. When we first arrived in Maputo, it was our absolute favorite restaurant and we knew the manager and benefited from him ordering special seafood platters on our behalf. Now, apparently, the management has changed. It's still a good restaurant and certainly worth a visit due to its history, but there is better seafood to be had elsewhere, in my opinion.
- change in management at the restaurant at Hotel Terminus, definitely a change for the better. Maputo increasingly has several very good restaurants to choose from.
- opening of Café Sol, the first (and hopefully not the last) coffehouse in the city.
- new hotels in the city: VIP executive and the Arabian-themed one on Av. 24 de Julho.
- destruction of the abandoned Four Seasons hotel. We watched the big blast from Jenny's apartment, and Paco got it on tape, complete with me inadvertently yelling "Caralho!" at the sound of the explosion and subsequent collapse of the old concrete structure. Maputo's shoreline is certainly better off without that eyesore.
- booming residential construction, especially in Bairro Triunfo.
- increase in crime, though thankfully Maputo is still a relatively safe city, especially if compared to places like Rio or Joburg. There have been several carjackings and kidnappings in the last year, a change from the more petty pickpocketing and vehicle/home burgulary that usually plagues the city. I suppose this is one of the unavoidable consequences of growth, especially if the economic benefits don't trickle down to the majority of the population.
- increased food prices and transport cost. I keep wondering when the unsustainable solutions reached following the transport riots in February will start to break apart.
- more "luxury" options available in Maputo: day spas, massage parlors, pilates and yoga classes, etc.
- increase in rent prices. Now it's very difficult to get an apartment in a "good" neighborhood as an expat for less than US$800/month. It's not at all uncommon for a newer/remodeled 3-bedroom flat to go for US$2,500 - US$3,500 per month in these areas. Big houses can easily go for US$3,500 to US$4,500 per month. This is much more than I was paying in Austin, or certainly in New Mexico, and is nearly what rent is like in notoriously expensive cities like San Francisco and New York!
What other changes have you noticed lately in Maputo? Any contributions to this list in the comments are welcome!
Monday, October 20, 2008
Civic Duties Completed
Amazingly, my absentee ballot arrived by mail at our apartment in Maputo. Given the dismal record of receiving mail over the past 3.5 years, I was nothing short of shocked. I thought I'd requested that the ballot be delivered to the US Embassy, but somehow it still arrived via post at our front door.
I feel very disconnected from the election process. I know that even though I reside overseas, the policies of the US still greatly affect me on a personal level, from taxes to how much I must play the ambassador role in the face of poor strategic decisions (and the resulting destroyed reputation of our country) made by our government. Still, I don't really feel engaged. Politics has never been my cup of tea, but I don't think I've ever been so apathetic about the process. Strange, especially considering what a dynamic election process this has been so far, and what critical issues are on the table for our next President to manage.
I decided to vote last week, given that I've know for quite a while whom I prefer to take office come next year. For the record, I voted for Obama, but I'm not entirely convinced he has the fiscal savvy to pull the US through the economic crisis in the most efficient way. Still, for me, he represents the best choice at this point.
I can feel myself becoming more and more centrist as the years go by. I am definitely still a bit left-of-center, but I am increasingly incapable of identifying with either party, or even with a liberal vs. conservative orientation. I've always been registered as an Independent, but now, after some leftish leanings in college, I'm firmly convinced this is the best choice for me.
Apparently my ballot will be delivered along with a bunch of others from Mozambique en masse via the diplomatic pouch, direct to wherever the counting will take place. Here's hoping everything goes as it should with that process...
Also, speaking of civic duties, I got a new passport last week as well. It was fortuitous timing, as 1) I was nearly out of pages, even after 2 additional booklets of 24 pages; 2) my passport was about to expire; and 3) I changed my name. I now have a shiny, new booklet with no stamps that easily fits in my passport holder. And it is my first official document with my new name.
Now that I am legitimate (in the eyes of the US government) as Mrs. Amaro, this kicks of the fun process of changing my name on social security records, bank accounts, credit cards, IRA, driving license, and every other public document ever issued. And I thought I was escaping bureaucracy by leaving my consulting assignment at the BIC...
I feel very disconnected from the election process. I know that even though I reside overseas, the policies of the US still greatly affect me on a personal level, from taxes to how much I must play the ambassador role in the face of poor strategic decisions (and the resulting destroyed reputation of our country) made by our government. Still, I don't really feel engaged. Politics has never been my cup of tea, but I don't think I've ever been so apathetic about the process. Strange, especially considering what a dynamic election process this has been so far, and what critical issues are on the table for our next President to manage.
I decided to vote last week, given that I've know for quite a while whom I prefer to take office come next year. For the record, I voted for Obama, but I'm not entirely convinced he has the fiscal savvy to pull the US through the economic crisis in the most efficient way. Still, for me, he represents the best choice at this point.
I can feel myself becoming more and more centrist as the years go by. I am definitely still a bit left-of-center, but I am increasingly incapable of identifying with either party, or even with a liberal vs. conservative orientation. I've always been registered as an Independent, but now, after some leftish leanings in college, I'm firmly convinced this is the best choice for me.
Apparently my ballot will be delivered along with a bunch of others from Mozambique en masse via the diplomatic pouch, direct to wherever the counting will take place. Here's hoping everything goes as it should with that process...
Also, speaking of civic duties, I got a new passport last week as well. It was fortuitous timing, as 1) I was nearly out of pages, even after 2 additional booklets of 24 pages; 2) my passport was about to expire; and 3) I changed my name. I now have a shiny, new booklet with no stamps that easily fits in my passport holder. And it is my first official document with my new name.
Now that I am legitimate (in the eyes of the US government) as Mrs. Amaro, this kicks of the fun process of changing my name on social security records, bank accounts, credit cards, IRA, driving license, and every other public document ever issued. And I thought I was escaping bureaucracy by leaving my consulting assignment at the BIC...
Friday, October 17, 2008
Thank God It's the 6th Day*
Whew! It's been a whirlwind of a week. I'm glad it's Friday evening and that I have a chance to kick back, have a cocktail, organize my jewelry supplies and go to bed early.
The week started out with my birthday on Monday, and Rico and I had a lovely, quiet celebration. He gave me a chandelier as a gift, which means that he knows me excedingly well. It is a bit of an antique, probably from the 1950's if the design tells me anything, and is a robin's egg blue with a bit of gold painting and 12 candelabra-style arms. It's perfect in my office, as it gives me the blast of light I've been craving for my jewelry work. After surprising me with the chandelier, Rico and I went out to dinner at Micasa, where we had steaks and a delicious bottle of Vergelegen (if I remember the name correctly), perhaps my new favorite South African red wine.
The rest of the week was spent preparing a report at work for an Avian Influenza Contingency Support program that our organization is implementing together with a few departments from the Ministry of Agriculture. It was a real challenge to pull together the report, for reasons that I won't and shouldn't get into here on the blog, but suffice to say I had a "prova de fogo", as they say in Portuguese, to kick off my new job. I managed to finish the report last night at 1am, and turned it in for review by headquarters. In a nutshell, they freaked out a bit. I can tell I'm coming from the private sector and that I'm used to writing bottom-line focused business plans. The feedback I got was that my report was way too harsh, and that it portrayed the organization in a bit of a negative light... The morning was spent "correcting" the language, which amused me to no end. I suppose I need to brush off my euphemisms and flowery writing skills again. You know, "recession" vs. "period of economic uncertainty", or "discrepancy" vs. "slight differences in figures". That type of thing. I realize that although I love to write, I am much more of a tell-it-like-it-is girl in the workplace.
To celebrate the end of the week, I had my nails done today thanks to a gift certificate from my friend Lindsey. I had my hands painted in a super-metallic, intense silver, and my toes done in what looked in the bottle to be a light gray with bluish undertones. I like my hands, but they aren't my favorite color ever with my skintone. A bit too intense, I think. My toes, however, were the big surprise of the day. The color I chose looked in the bottle to have the potential to turn my toes a cold, morgue-like hue of pale gray. But once painted on and juxtaposed with my olive skin, I realized I'd found the perfect neutral. The nice pink-y, beige-y colors that tend to be marketed as neutrals usually look awful on me. They wash me out and turn way too warm. But this is perfect. For the record, it's Essie's Great Expectations. My other all-time favorites are Wicked and this cocoa shade with copper glitter that I can't seem to find on the site.
So. While speaking of all things fashion and feminine, I have 4 people coming to see me tomorrow because they want custom jewelry designs! One woman is getting married and wants rings and a necklace, another wants a set with Ilha de Moçambique beads, another wants some chandelier earrings, and another wants a nose ring! Tomorrow will be a busy day, but at least I'll be spending it doing something I love!
* Portuguese, unlike other romance languages, names the weekdays after numbers. Monday is segunda-feira, literally "second fair (market day) of the week". Friday is the sixth. So TGIF, Portuguese style!
The week started out with my birthday on Monday, and Rico and I had a lovely, quiet celebration. He gave me a chandelier as a gift, which means that he knows me excedingly well. It is a bit of an antique, probably from the 1950's if the design tells me anything, and is a robin's egg blue with a bit of gold painting and 12 candelabra-style arms. It's perfect in my office, as it gives me the blast of light I've been craving for my jewelry work. After surprising me with the chandelier, Rico and I went out to dinner at Micasa, where we had steaks and a delicious bottle of Vergelegen (if I remember the name correctly), perhaps my new favorite South African red wine.
The rest of the week was spent preparing a report at work for an Avian Influenza Contingency Support program that our organization is implementing together with a few departments from the Ministry of Agriculture. It was a real challenge to pull together the report, for reasons that I won't and shouldn't get into here on the blog, but suffice to say I had a "prova de fogo", as they say in Portuguese, to kick off my new job. I managed to finish the report last night at 1am, and turned it in for review by headquarters. In a nutshell, they freaked out a bit. I can tell I'm coming from the private sector and that I'm used to writing bottom-line focused business plans. The feedback I got was that my report was way too harsh, and that it portrayed the organization in a bit of a negative light... The morning was spent "correcting" the language, which amused me to no end. I suppose I need to brush off my euphemisms and flowery writing skills again. You know, "recession" vs. "period of economic uncertainty", or "discrepancy" vs. "slight differences in figures". That type of thing. I realize that although I love to write, I am much more of a tell-it-like-it-is girl in the workplace.
To celebrate the end of the week, I had my nails done today thanks to a gift certificate from my friend Lindsey. I had my hands painted in a super-metallic, intense silver, and my toes done in what looked in the bottle to be a light gray with bluish undertones. I like my hands, but they aren't my favorite color ever with my skintone. A bit too intense, I think. My toes, however, were the big surprise of the day. The color I chose looked in the bottle to have the potential to turn my toes a cold, morgue-like hue of pale gray. But once painted on and juxtaposed with my olive skin, I realized I'd found the perfect neutral. The nice pink-y, beige-y colors that tend to be marketed as neutrals usually look awful on me. They wash me out and turn way too warm. But this is perfect. For the record, it's Essie's Great Expectations. My other all-time favorites are Wicked and this cocoa shade with copper glitter that I can't seem to find on the site.
So. While speaking of all things fashion and feminine, I have 4 people coming to see me tomorrow because they want custom jewelry designs! One woman is getting married and wants rings and a necklace, another wants a set with Ilha de Moçambique beads, another wants some chandelier earrings, and another wants a nose ring! Tomorrow will be a busy day, but at least I'll be spending it doing something I love!
* Portuguese, unlike other romance languages, names the weekdays after numbers. Monday is segunda-feira, literally "second fair (market day) of the week". Friday is the sixth. So TGIF, Portuguese style!
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Looking Back
Today is my last day of being 26 years old. As I think about the past year, I remember these events, lessons, sorrows, moments of silliness and new-chapter markers:
- My experience working with Hugh Marlboro at the Banana Empire. Although it inspired some of my favorite writing ever, and many times I think the people I met in that job will be the model for the characters in my first novel, it was overall a tough time for me. I had very high hopes and put my former employer on a bit of a pedestal. The more lofty your expectations, the larger your disappointment when they are not met. I am convinced it was all for the best, though. I moved on to a better work environment, a much better salary than I ever could have hoped for at the Empire, and the valuable lesson of how to better deal with charismatic, nearly intoxicating, but unquestionably flawed bosses.
- Lots of new job opportunities following the episode with Hugh Marlboro. First I worked as a consultant at the BIC doing investment analysis for a fund that supports small and medium-sized local businesses. I can't complain too much about that job, because the timing was God-sent, the pay was good and my friend Tracy was my boss for most of my time there (she was one of the best managers I've ever had, actually, which is rare considering we were close friends prior to working together, which sometimes makes these things difficult). However, the bureaucracy got to me and I'm glad I had a new opportunity elsewhere. Now I'm working for an NGO, and the experience thus far has been positive...
- Coping while Rico was in Brazil from July to December 2007. I never expected our time apart to be so difficult. We had a very strong relationship at that point (and still do, graças a Deus), but I was a bit blindsided by how much being apart affected us and presented us with challenges. It was, I suppose, a good process to go through prior to getting married. We were forced to seriously look at our relationship, spot any brewing issues, and talk things through. The most important lesson that I got out of the time apart was that we must always work to have a good relationship. Nothing is to be taken for granted. This seems a bit trite, but it was important to remember this. Relationships, just like people, are fragile. If neglected even in a very subtle manner, cracks can easily appear. This isn't to say that we neglected each other, or our relationship in general, but we had the difficult wake-up call that even though we get along splendidly and love each other very much, it's not a given that we will stay together. We must cultivate our relationship, be present and aware as much as possible. We have to work to make it happen, every day, infinitely.
- I made some mistakes and bad choices that to this day I am ashamed to think about. I was humbled by the fact that I am capable of hurting the people I love. I made amends in the best way I knew how, but it still pains me to think about these few episodes. I try to be forgiving with myself, and with others. We are all human, and all make mistakes. Every night I pray to God to help me be a stronger, more whole person. I pray that I will learn from my previous poor choices, and that I will go forward as a wiser, kinder, less selfish being.
- Our wedding. The best day of my life thus far. Rico, all of our families together, the Casa Rosa, the church across the street, my dresses and jewelry, friends, dancing, and endless magic.
- Our honeymoon in Vietnam. Total luxury for 16 days in one of the most interesting and beautiful countries I've ever visited. We cruised through Ha Long Bay, went trekking in Sapa, learned to cook some Vietnamese dishes, had clothes made in Hoi An and wandered through the old city, roasted under the sun at the Imperial City in Hue, drank Moet & Chandon and ate wild mushrooms, braved Saigon traffic, visited a floating market in Can Tho, and enjoyed all of the gorgeous honeymoon suites we were treated with during our stay.
- Other fabulous trips and holidays: Brazil/New Mexico/Bay Area over the holidays with Rico - a lavish Christmas with my Dad and that side of the family, including snow falling in Quarai mission, covering the red stones of the ruins with fine white powder; quality family time with my Mom and Grammy and all the animals in California, including a fabulous night out with old friends from high school and a world music concert for New Years; and record-setting wedding planning while in Rio, getting nearly all the major details pulled together in 1 week. We also went to Swaziland with a great group of friends for an adventure sports weekend, the highlight of which for me was white-water rafting and me and Rico being the only boat not to flip over on the river. We did a weekend at Bilene, a beautiful coastal lagoon in Gaza Province, with a group of friends and braaied at the beach house. And, to finish off my 26 years in style, there was our most recent trip to Italy, Slovenia and Austria. I must say, we have a fabulous quality of life.
- Our first international visitors here in Maputo, both in March. Our friend Heleno from Brazil did a business trip to see what connections he might establish for his business in China, and my Mom came to see what our life here is all about and also to test the waters for business opportunities. We look forward to receiving more friends and family here, though we're aware it is a long, expensive trip.
- Little Pequena, the kitten we unexpectedly adopted after my friends Kelly and Jenny rescued her from an alley outside the CFM after one too many gin and tonics. I got a frantic text message the next day, as Jenny doesn't like cats and Kelly is allergic and already has a big dog at home. We took in Pequena, nursed her back to health, and desperately tried to find her a home. After several months, a colleague at the Banana Empire agreed to adopt her. Unfortunately, little Pequena met an untimely demise on the farm, most likely after an encounter with a snake or dog out in the wilds of Boane.
- Our beautiful, loving, naughty, pentelho, unique filhotes: Pria and Parceiro. These cats make me happy every single day.
- Warming a bit to the idea of having children. I'm not very maternal, am not experienced with babies or honestly even comfortable around them, and I've never felt the idea of having children as a real, palpable possibility for my future. Not in the sense that I don't want to have a family - I've always known that at some point I would like to have kids - but in the sense that it was always a very far off idea, years and years away, not something I could relate to at all. Now, for the first time, I feel that having kids is an increasingly real possibility. Some days I think I'd like to get pregnant, though I'm terrified by the idea of giving birth and I know that I'm not yet ready for that big step. I think we're still a few years off, but I can feel changes in my perspective, and this is definitely a first for me.
- Meeting lots of new friends in Mozambique via the blog: Anel and Morne, Brendan, Lindsey, Christina, Jose, Colin...the other day I made a list of all the people I've met here through my blog and was shocked to realize that it's close to 50, and that many of my best friends here now in "real life" I've met via the internet.
- Making fitness a part of our lifestyle, and in particular making exercise something that Rico and I do together. We're working out at least once a week now with a personal trainer, concentrating on flexibility and cardio. It's well worth the money.
- Getting a car and learning to drive one the left-hand side of the street in a car that has the steering wheel on the right. I'm over my initial trauma, though I'm still essentially incapable of parallel parking. Perhaps this is a skill I can add to my list of accomplishments for age 27.
- Changing my name. I took (one of) Rico's last name(s) and tacked it on the end of my own, thus preserving the historical and cultural significance of my maiden name, but giving me a new name that is beautiful, full of alliteration, and easy on the Portuguese-speaking tongue. It's amazing to think that for the rest of my life I will be Alexandra Amaro...
- My experience working with Hugh Marlboro at the Banana Empire. Although it inspired some of my favorite writing ever, and many times I think the people I met in that job will be the model for the characters in my first novel, it was overall a tough time for me. I had very high hopes and put my former employer on a bit of a pedestal. The more lofty your expectations, the larger your disappointment when they are not met. I am convinced it was all for the best, though. I moved on to a better work environment, a much better salary than I ever could have hoped for at the Empire, and the valuable lesson of how to better deal with charismatic, nearly intoxicating, but unquestionably flawed bosses.
- Lots of new job opportunities following the episode with Hugh Marlboro. First I worked as a consultant at the BIC doing investment analysis for a fund that supports small and medium-sized local businesses. I can't complain too much about that job, because the timing was God-sent, the pay was good and my friend Tracy was my boss for most of my time there (she was one of the best managers I've ever had, actually, which is rare considering we were close friends prior to working together, which sometimes makes these things difficult). However, the bureaucracy got to me and I'm glad I had a new opportunity elsewhere. Now I'm working for an NGO, and the experience thus far has been positive...
- Coping while Rico was in Brazil from July to December 2007. I never expected our time apart to be so difficult. We had a very strong relationship at that point (and still do, graças a Deus), but I was a bit blindsided by how much being apart affected us and presented us with challenges. It was, I suppose, a good process to go through prior to getting married. We were forced to seriously look at our relationship, spot any brewing issues, and talk things through. The most important lesson that I got out of the time apart was that we must always work to have a good relationship. Nothing is to be taken for granted. This seems a bit trite, but it was important to remember this. Relationships, just like people, are fragile. If neglected even in a very subtle manner, cracks can easily appear. This isn't to say that we neglected each other, or our relationship in general, but we had the difficult wake-up call that even though we get along splendidly and love each other very much, it's not a given that we will stay together. We must cultivate our relationship, be present and aware as much as possible. We have to work to make it happen, every day, infinitely.
- I made some mistakes and bad choices that to this day I am ashamed to think about. I was humbled by the fact that I am capable of hurting the people I love. I made amends in the best way I knew how, but it still pains me to think about these few episodes. I try to be forgiving with myself, and with others. We are all human, and all make mistakes. Every night I pray to God to help me be a stronger, more whole person. I pray that I will learn from my previous poor choices, and that I will go forward as a wiser, kinder, less selfish being.
- Our wedding. The best day of my life thus far. Rico, all of our families together, the Casa Rosa, the church across the street, my dresses and jewelry, friends, dancing, and endless magic.
- Our honeymoon in Vietnam. Total luxury for 16 days in one of the most interesting and beautiful countries I've ever visited. We cruised through Ha Long Bay, went trekking in Sapa, learned to cook some Vietnamese dishes, had clothes made in Hoi An and wandered through the old city, roasted under the sun at the Imperial City in Hue, drank Moet & Chandon and ate wild mushrooms, braved Saigon traffic, visited a floating market in Can Tho, and enjoyed all of the gorgeous honeymoon suites we were treated with during our stay.
- Other fabulous trips and holidays: Brazil/New Mexico/Bay Area over the holidays with Rico - a lavish Christmas with my Dad and that side of the family, including snow falling in Quarai mission, covering the red stones of the ruins with fine white powder; quality family time with my Mom and Grammy and all the animals in California, including a fabulous night out with old friends from high school and a world music concert for New Years; and record-setting wedding planning while in Rio, getting nearly all the major details pulled together in 1 week. We also went to Swaziland with a great group of friends for an adventure sports weekend, the highlight of which for me was white-water rafting and me and Rico being the only boat not to flip over on the river. We did a weekend at Bilene, a beautiful coastal lagoon in Gaza Province, with a group of friends and braaied at the beach house. And, to finish off my 26 years in style, there was our most recent trip to Italy, Slovenia and Austria. I must say, we have a fabulous quality of life.
- Our first international visitors here in Maputo, both in March. Our friend Heleno from Brazil did a business trip to see what connections he might establish for his business in China, and my Mom came to see what our life here is all about and also to test the waters for business opportunities. We look forward to receiving more friends and family here, though we're aware it is a long, expensive trip.
- Little Pequena, the kitten we unexpectedly adopted after my friends Kelly and Jenny rescued her from an alley outside the CFM after one too many gin and tonics. I got a frantic text message the next day, as Jenny doesn't like cats and Kelly is allergic and already has a big dog at home. We took in Pequena, nursed her back to health, and desperately tried to find her a home. After several months, a colleague at the Banana Empire agreed to adopt her. Unfortunately, little Pequena met an untimely demise on the farm, most likely after an encounter with a snake or dog out in the wilds of Boane.
- Our beautiful, loving, naughty, pentelho, unique filhotes: Pria and Parceiro. These cats make me happy every single day.
- Warming a bit to the idea of having children. I'm not very maternal, am not experienced with babies or honestly even comfortable around them, and I've never felt the idea of having children as a real, palpable possibility for my future. Not in the sense that I don't want to have a family - I've always known that at some point I would like to have kids - but in the sense that it was always a very far off idea, years and years away, not something I could relate to at all. Now, for the first time, I feel that having kids is an increasingly real possibility. Some days I think I'd like to get pregnant, though I'm terrified by the idea of giving birth and I know that I'm not yet ready for that big step. I think we're still a few years off, but I can feel changes in my perspective, and this is definitely a first for me.
- Meeting lots of new friends in Mozambique via the blog: Anel and Morne, Brendan, Lindsey, Christina, Jose, Colin...the other day I made a list of all the people I've met here through my blog and was shocked to realize that it's close to 50, and that many of my best friends here now in "real life" I've met via the internet.
- Making fitness a part of our lifestyle, and in particular making exercise something that Rico and I do together. We're working out at least once a week now with a personal trainer, concentrating on flexibility and cardio. It's well worth the money.
- Getting a car and learning to drive one the left-hand side of the street in a car that has the steering wheel on the right. I'm over my initial trauma, though I'm still essentially incapable of parallel parking. Perhaps this is a skill I can add to my list of accomplishments for age 27.
- Changing my name. I took (one of) Rico's last name(s) and tacked it on the end of my own, thus preserving the historical and cultural significance of my maiden name, but giving me a new name that is beautiful, full of alliteration, and easy on the Portuguese-speaking tongue. It's amazing to think that for the rest of my life I will be Alexandra Amaro...
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
Photos Including: Vineyards, Rilke, and the Spot Where the Iron Curtain Once "Hung"(?)
A portrait of Mittel Europe: view of Gorizia, Italy from the town castle.
With Marino, our good family friend, with the hills of Slovenia in the background. During the war, Gorizia was split in two; half stayed in Italy, and half went to Yugoslavia under the name Nova Gorica. Now there are no borders - truly amazing.
Marker in a plaza outside the Transalpino railway station in Nova Gorica. As Marino put it, this marks the spot where the Iron Curtain once stood.
We climbed a crazy-narrow (and very tall) spiral staircase to get to the top of this monument near Dobrovo, Slovenia. I was dizzy already from the ascent; the height and wind didn't help at all.
View of the wine-making Collio region of the border. The specialty here is white wines, my favorite being the dessert wine Picolit.
A controversial church (due to its modern architecture), built on a prominent hilltop to give thanks for Trieste having remained part of Italy after the war.
View of the Adriatic Sea from the church hill. I love the light this time of year!
Rico and I hiked the Rilke trail from Sistiana to Duino. The karst cliffs and clear blue water were to die for.
Trying to walk off at least some of the figs I ate!
View of the marina at Sistiana. This beach marks the point where, to the East along the Dalmatian coast, all the beaches are rocky; to the west, along the coast of the Italian peninsula, all the beaches are sandy.
Sunday, October 05, 2008
Shine
I recently bought the album Shine by an artist called Estelle. You might know her from the song "American Boy" she sings with Kanye West. I originally got into Estelle because of the video for that song, which is so classy and fresh, and she is simply gorgeous.
Rico and I listened to the entire album while driving to and from Joburg last month (we chose to drive to Joburg as opposed to flying because it costs US$450 per person to go on the 45-minute flight from Maputo, which is absurd!) and are both totally hooked on Estelle's music. All the tracks are brilliant, and I've not been so into an album of this style since Lauryn Hill.
The best song, however, is the title track. Both Rico and I have been singing it all week. "Oh, this is my song, and just like you I got a right to stay strong...I'm gonna shine, gonna shine, gonna shine while my light's on." Amen to that!
Rico and I listened to the entire album while driving to and from Joburg last month (we chose to drive to Joburg as opposed to flying because it costs US$450 per person to go on the 45-minute flight from Maputo, which is absurd!) and are both totally hooked on Estelle's music. All the tracks are brilliant, and I've not been so into an album of this style since Lauryn Hill.
The best song, however, is the title track. Both Rico and I have been singing it all week. "Oh, this is my song, and just like you I got a right to stay strong...I'm gonna shine, gonna shine, gonna shine while my light's on." Amen to that!
Saturday, October 04, 2008
More Italy Trip: Aquileia and Grado
Rico and I took a day to explore the area to the South of my Grandmother's house, setting of many a memory from my younger years. We drove through beautiful countryside, gawked at ice-blue rivers, visited Aquileia (ruins of an ancient Roman city) and had lunch at the seaside town of Grado.
Rico in the Basilica at Aquileia, built in 1031 and, according to Wikipedia, one of the "most important edifices of Christianity." The entire floor of the cathedral is covered in mosaics from the 4th century, though they don't come out so well in photos.
Mosaic detail of the fight between the tortoise and the cock. Each mosaic has some sort of Biblical or historical symbolism, but I'm not able to remember much...I admit, my fascination with the mosaics is much more aesthetic in origin.
More detail from the mosaic pavement in the basilica, taken without flash.
There are 2 crypts in the basilica, also covered in mosaics and featuring frescoes from the 12th century that depict the origins of Christianity in Aquileia (no photos due to no flash rule and lack of tripod).
Classic Ali and Rico arm's length photo inside the 5th centry baptistry.
The "basin" used for baptisms in Aquileia (large stone structure behind Rico) was easily as big as the small wading pool in our house in Rio!
View of the belltower from the archealogical walkway behind the basilica. Unfortunately, the day was quite overcast but with bright light, making it hard to take decent photos with the point-and-shoot.
This once was the site of the Romans' fluvial port. A lime green, moss-covered trickle is all that is left today.
Ruins of the fluvial port structure, with a modern-day soccer field in the background.
Reconstruction of arches and columns at entrance to fluvial port. I love all the scroll detail!
Rico and I went out one of the secondary exits of the Aquileia site, and had to walk along the highway for a bit to get back to our car. This was the view through a gate along the road. Ah, Italy!
After visiting Aquileia, we headed to Grado. Rico went crazy with all the sailboats in the marina.
A group of painters worked to capture the imagery of the main canal.
Rico decided Grado would be an "acceptable" place to have a sailboat, if he were forced to lead such a hard life at any point.
This photo is from another day, but I love it. Here we were walking around Gorizia, if I remember correctly. I am wearing my favorite necklace, one I made from a bit of abalone shell my mom found on the beach in California. I wrapped it with some silver wire, put it on a cord, and now wear it all the time.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Over the River and Through the Woods (really!)
Partial view of the orchard and entrance to the boschetto (little forest) behind my Grandmother's house. The river is just beside the property - actually there are two: the Vipacco and the Isonzo.
Our nephew Felipe showing off freshly picked walnuts and playing photographer.
Our nephew Thiago and his father Martin, with a view of the house in the background.
Proudly displaying the massive basket of figs I picked. I managed to eat all of these in about 4 days!
Portrait of the Vida Difícil.
My sister-in-law Andrea searching for hazelnuts.
Somehow I managed to convince Thiago that it wasn't, in fact, a good idea to take the lawnmower for a spin.
Rico examining the engine of the 1938 Fiat my Grammy gave to us grandkids to restore.
Martin checks out the convertible top. Everything in the car is in remarkably good condition.
Words fail me to describe how much my Grammy likes Rico. Seriously!
The Fiat is a one-family car. My great-great-grandmother was the original owner, and we still have the car papers in her name. Quite the legacy, né?
Changing: Seasons and Jobs
After a couple of windy, nasty days, summer is finally here in Maputo. Today it is bright blue skies and feels like it's easily 40C. I'm excited about the onset of summer, even though it is unbearably hot and humid at times. This year I am determined to take advantage of living in such a beautiful place. I want to do more trips to the beach, visit new places like Tofo and Ponta Mamoli, finally go to Kruger, and continue the trend that A. and I started the last weekend it was this hot - freshly squeezed Bloody Marys using our juice extractor and the tomatoes and veg from her garden.
Along with the weather, today marks the end of a chapter in my professional life. I have accepted a full-time job (gasp!) with an organization whose tag-line is something like "Business solutions to rural poverty." Technically they are an NGO, which has me a bit wary given my general opinion of aid, however they *are* heavily private sector focused, and their mission is to strengthen business operating environments and develop specific sectors, cooperatives and entrepreneurs. One thing that has me cautiously optimistic is that they use quantitative, business-inspired indicators to measure their activities and successes - or lack thereof.
If nothing else, it is always good to understand both sides of an argument. Leaving the private sector for the time being will give me valuable insight to the day-to-day workings and strategies of a business-oriented NGO in Mozambique. I continue to believe there is some model out there that provides a positive impact, though on my more cynical days all I can think about is how all donors and capacity-builders and long-term sustainable developers should just get the hell out and leave Mozambique and the Mozambicans to sort themselves out - same thing for all "developing" nations.
Anyhow, it will be an experience, that is for sure. I hope to take something good out of it, as well as contribute something valuable in the process. One thing sem dúvida is that I am ready to leave Big International Corporation. For all the private sector, bottom-line-focused, small-business-enabling rhetoric around here, my end evaluation after working as a consultant here for 8 months is that it is one of the more supremely, maddeningly, absurdly inefficient institutions I've ever encountered, both internally and externally. So much for the "private sector is more efficient" argument, although BIC is more like an aid organization in that their funding for this particular fund comes from donors, and therefore heads don't roll in the face of non-performance like they do in traditional financial institutions.
So what will I be doing in my new job? A lot of different things, but I hope that keeps me interested. My title is Director of Stakeholder Relations, which I am trying to ignore because I hate the wishy-washy sound of it. Essentially I will be responsible for: 1) ensuring the quality and timeliness of all written proposals to funding sources; 2) ensuring the quality and timeliness of all reporting to funding sources and other stakeholders; 3) managing the volunteer consultant program; and 4) developing and implementing knowledge management practices, including trainings and mentorships for staff.
The part of the job that I am most looking forward to is working with the volunteer consultants. This particular organization brings very high-caliber individuals to work on specific projects in each of the countries where they operate. For example, an executive from Shell Oil might come to Mozambique to work for 2 months helping a group of coconut producers develop a biodiesel business plan. Or a consultant from McKinsey might come for 6 months to create a marketing plan for the country's cashew industry. I am hoping that the interaction with all of the volunteer consultants keeps me inspired, on my toes, and interested in my job.
I'm counting down the hours until I say goodbye to BIC. More than anything, the bureaucracy drove me crazy. I already knew that I'm not cut out to work in an environment that doesn't embrace innovation and flexibility, but this experience confirmed it 100%. The saddest part is that BIC is staffed with some of the most intelligent, committed people you could hope to come across, both Mozambican and expats. The cumbersome, ineffective system, however, almost negates that fact...
Adeus, senhores. It's been a good ride, but it's even better to get out when the time is right.
Along with the weather, today marks the end of a chapter in my professional life. I have accepted a full-time job (gasp!) with an organization whose tag-line is something like "Business solutions to rural poverty." Technically they are an NGO, which has me a bit wary given my general opinion of aid, however they *are* heavily private sector focused, and their mission is to strengthen business operating environments and develop specific sectors, cooperatives and entrepreneurs. One thing that has me cautiously optimistic is that they use quantitative, business-inspired indicators to measure their activities and successes - or lack thereof.
If nothing else, it is always good to understand both sides of an argument. Leaving the private sector for the time being will give me valuable insight to the day-to-day workings and strategies of a business-oriented NGO in Mozambique. I continue to believe there is some model out there that provides a positive impact, though on my more cynical days all I can think about is how all donors and capacity-builders and long-term sustainable developers should just get the hell out and leave Mozambique and the Mozambicans to sort themselves out - same thing for all "developing" nations.
Anyhow, it will be an experience, that is for sure. I hope to take something good out of it, as well as contribute something valuable in the process. One thing sem dúvida is that I am ready to leave Big International Corporation. For all the private sector, bottom-line-focused, small-business-enabling rhetoric around here, my end evaluation after working as a consultant here for 8 months is that it is one of the more supremely, maddeningly, absurdly inefficient institutions I've ever encountered, both internally and externally. So much for the "private sector is more efficient" argument, although BIC is more like an aid organization in that their funding for this particular fund comes from donors, and therefore heads don't roll in the face of non-performance like they do in traditional financial institutions.
So what will I be doing in my new job? A lot of different things, but I hope that keeps me interested. My title is Director of Stakeholder Relations, which I am trying to ignore because I hate the wishy-washy sound of it. Essentially I will be responsible for: 1) ensuring the quality and timeliness of all written proposals to funding sources; 2) ensuring the quality and timeliness of all reporting to funding sources and other stakeholders; 3) managing the volunteer consultant program; and 4) developing and implementing knowledge management practices, including trainings and mentorships for staff.
The part of the job that I am most looking forward to is working with the volunteer consultants. This particular organization brings very high-caliber individuals to work on specific projects in each of the countries where they operate. For example, an executive from Shell Oil might come to Mozambique to work for 2 months helping a group of coconut producers develop a biodiesel business plan. Or a consultant from McKinsey might come for 6 months to create a marketing plan for the country's cashew industry. I am hoping that the interaction with all of the volunteer consultants keeps me inspired, on my toes, and interested in my job.
I'm counting down the hours until I say goodbye to BIC. More than anything, the bureaucracy drove me crazy. I already knew that I'm not cut out to work in an environment that doesn't embrace innovation and flexibility, but this experience confirmed it 100%. The saddest part is that BIC is staffed with some of the most intelligent, committed people you could hope to come across, both Mozambican and expats. The cumbersome, ineffective system, however, almost negates that fact...
Adeus, senhores. It's been a good ride, but it's even better to get out when the time is right.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Globalized
A Few of My Favorite Things about Italy
- eating ridiculous amounts of perfectly ripe figs - both purple and green - from the trees in my grandmother's orchard
- nightly fires in the giant elevated platform fireplace in the dining room
- finding the same Pro Secco we served at our wedding for the maddeningly cheap price of 4 Euros per bottle
- drinking said Pro Secco every night
- apple strudel (using fruit from our orchard) made by our family friend Breda, who is one of the best cooks I know
- realizing that all I need is a couple weeks in Italy for my Italian to come roaring back
- gelato from the local dairy
- admiring all of the antiques and paintings from the family collection
- catching up with Marino and Breda
- getting on Rico's shoulders to pick grapes
- wandering around Grado and looking at all the sailboats
A Few of My Favorite Things about Austria
- using my neglected cold-weather clothes every day
- new pair of Hugo Boss high heels, 50% off regular price
- visit to wineries near border with Slovenia
- eating a Whopper with chili sauce at Burger King at a rest stop (I know!)
- flavored mustards and vinegars
- the old town in Graz
- the modern architecture of my sister-in-law's remodeled apartment
- picking raspberries and plums
- Rico's face when he realized the "medalhão" he'd ordered was horse and not beef
- talking to Rico and Andrea's dad via Skype video while all piled together on the sofa
- nephews (as Rico puts it, you enjoy them until you are tired, then hand them over to their parents again)
A Few of My Favorite Things about Being Home
- purring cats
- cooking and baking sprees
- no more suitcases
- being able to make jewelry
- no more communication barriers or being exhausted by the effort to speak another language
- all of the jacarandas are in bloom
- being able to stay in pajamas all day without feeling guilty
- catching up with friends
- no children (except the furry, 4-legged ones)
- feeling the shift in the weather - summer is almost here!
- eating ridiculous amounts of perfectly ripe figs - both purple and green - from the trees in my grandmother's orchard
- nightly fires in the giant elevated platform fireplace in the dining room
- finding the same Pro Secco we served at our wedding for the maddeningly cheap price of 4 Euros per bottle
- drinking said Pro Secco every night
- apple strudel (using fruit from our orchard) made by our family friend Breda, who is one of the best cooks I know
- realizing that all I need is a couple weeks in Italy for my Italian to come roaring back
- gelato from the local dairy
- admiring all of the antiques and paintings from the family collection
- catching up with Marino and Breda
- getting on Rico's shoulders to pick grapes
- wandering around Grado and looking at all the sailboats
A Few of My Favorite Things about Austria
- using my neglected cold-weather clothes every day
- new pair of Hugo Boss high heels, 50% off regular price
- visit to wineries near border with Slovenia
- eating a Whopper with chili sauce at Burger King at a rest stop (I know!)
- flavored mustards and vinegars
- the old town in Graz
- the modern architecture of my sister-in-law's remodeled apartment
- picking raspberries and plums
- Rico's face when he realized the "medalhão" he'd ordered was horse and not beef
- talking to Rico and Andrea's dad via Skype video while all piled together on the sofa
- nephews (as Rico puts it, you enjoy them until you are tired, then hand them over to their parents again)
A Few of My Favorite Things about Being Home
- purring cats
- cooking and baking sprees
- no more suitcases
- being able to make jewelry
- no more communication barriers or being exhausted by the effort to speak another language
- all of the jacarandas are in bloom
- being able to stay in pajamas all day without feeling guilty
- catching up with friends
- no children (except the furry, 4-legged ones)
- feeling the shift in the weather - summer is almost here!
Monday, September 22, 2008
The Glow is Gone
Is there such thing as post-wedding depression? Because if so, I think I have it, bad.
My friend Kelly told me that she suffered a low period after she got married a couple years ago, and not to be surprised if I went through something similar. The way she described it, though, it was much more a withdrawal from all the attention, the family, the friends, essentially having all the people in your little world focused on you and your special union as a couple.
For me, it´s ending up being much more superficial, though I realize that it´s not productive or even possible to play the "Whose depression is worse/more legitimate?" game. I´m feeling like quite the ugly duckling these days, down from a high point of fitness and natural glow in the weeks surrounding our wedding. I´ve gained weight thanks to the honeymoon and 10 days of unrestrained eating on this European trip, and I´ve not been disciplined with working out. The weight has been creeping up on me, but now I´ve reached that point where there is no pretending it´s not happening, and I must take a good look in the mirror and get on track again. Also, my hair is in this supremely awkward phase and has no shine, and I´m feeling like none of my clothes are fashionable or fit properly. Basically, I´ve got a case of the woman-blues.
The other day we were showing our professional wedding photos (finally got them!) to the equivalent of my Italian godparents, a very nice couple in their 40´s. When they opened the first album, they were like, "Who is this woman?". Ummmmm...it was me. Thus ensued a torturous discussion (for me) about how I don´t look anything like myself in the wedding photos and, concurrently, how the person in the photos looks so incredibly beautiful, thin, etc. They decided that it must have been the makeup (pointing out the sculpted cheeks that made me look much slimmer than in person), and that we had hired a fabulous photographer.
In my mind, the conclusion was that I obviously look fat and dumpy in real life, the "confirmation" I´d been dreading after weeks of having that exact thought going through my mind. I know they weren´t trying to be offensive, and that large parts of the world´s population must be pardoned for their unsolicited not-necessarily-positive commentary about one´s physical appearance (i.e. Brazilians, Mozambicans, Italians, etc.) because we all have different definitions of what is insensitive, but still, all I could hear was the fact that I have let myself go, or that I was artifically pretty at the wedding.
I recognize that most of this is a commentary on my mental state and self image, but that´s the part that really sucks. If it were just some insensitive people commenting, I could blow them off and continue with my happy life. The problem is that this perception is self-fabricated, and I don´t know how to make it go away.
I bought some beautiful Hugo Boss black high heels today. That helped somewhat. But I am in search of a longer-term solution, and unfortunately those don´t come with the swipe of a Visa.
My friend Kelly told me that she suffered a low period after she got married a couple years ago, and not to be surprised if I went through something similar. The way she described it, though, it was much more a withdrawal from all the attention, the family, the friends, essentially having all the people in your little world focused on you and your special union as a couple.
For me, it´s ending up being much more superficial, though I realize that it´s not productive or even possible to play the "Whose depression is worse/more legitimate?" game. I´m feeling like quite the ugly duckling these days, down from a high point of fitness and natural glow in the weeks surrounding our wedding. I´ve gained weight thanks to the honeymoon and 10 days of unrestrained eating on this European trip, and I´ve not been disciplined with working out. The weight has been creeping up on me, but now I´ve reached that point where there is no pretending it´s not happening, and I must take a good look in the mirror and get on track again. Also, my hair is in this supremely awkward phase and has no shine, and I´m feeling like none of my clothes are fashionable or fit properly. Basically, I´ve got a case of the woman-blues.
The other day we were showing our professional wedding photos (finally got them!) to the equivalent of my Italian godparents, a very nice couple in their 40´s. When they opened the first album, they were like, "Who is this woman?". Ummmmm...it was me. Thus ensued a torturous discussion (for me) about how I don´t look anything like myself in the wedding photos and, concurrently, how the person in the photos looks so incredibly beautiful, thin, etc. They decided that it must have been the makeup (pointing out the sculpted cheeks that made me look much slimmer than in person), and that we had hired a fabulous photographer.
In my mind, the conclusion was that I obviously look fat and dumpy in real life, the "confirmation" I´d been dreading after weeks of having that exact thought going through my mind. I know they weren´t trying to be offensive, and that large parts of the world´s population must be pardoned for their unsolicited not-necessarily-positive commentary about one´s physical appearance (i.e. Brazilians, Mozambicans, Italians, etc.) because we all have different definitions of what is insensitive, but still, all I could hear was the fact that I have let myself go, or that I was artifically pretty at the wedding.
I recognize that most of this is a commentary on my mental state and self image, but that´s the part that really sucks. If it were just some insensitive people commenting, I could blow them off and continue with my happy life. The problem is that this perception is self-fabricated, and I don´t know how to make it go away.
I bought some beautiful Hugo Boss black high heels today. That helped somewhat. But I am in search of a longer-term solution, and unfortunately those don´t come with the swipe of a Visa.
And I Thought Traffic in Maputo Was Crazy...
Obviously Vietnam takes the cake (and, from what I´ve heard, the situation in other SE Asian countries is similar). This video was taken from the 9th floor of the Sofitel Hanoi with our little point-and-shoot camera. Notice the constant honking, the absolutely random way the traffic flows around the circle, and - my personal favorite - the bicycles that slowly make their way through the motorbikes and cars, many times going the wrong way!
Crossing the street as a pedestrian, as you might imagine, was one of the most insane experiences of my life. You basically step out into heavy traffic, slowly follow a straight line, and watch in amazement as everyone swerves around you like the Red Sea of motor vehicles parting. In several of our hotels, they gave little information cards to tourists that included the cardinal rule for crossing the street in Vietnam: DON´T RUN!
Crossing the street as a pedestrian, as you might imagine, was one of the most insane experiences of my life. You basically step out into heavy traffic, slowly follow a straight line, and watch in amazement as everyone swerves around you like the Red Sea of motor vehicles parting. In several of our hotels, they gave little information cards to tourists that included the cardinal rule for crossing the street in Vietnam: DON´T RUN!
Honeymoon in Vietnam: Day 2 Continued
We´re currently in Graz, Austria visiting my sister-in-law and her family, but we have some down time and I figured I might as well get caught up on blogging.
Still on our second day of honeymoon, after the ceramics factory, Rico and I visited a beautiful little village that is a UNESCO world heritage site and renowned for their traditional paper and print-making crafts.
Apparently every family in the village used to participate in the traditional art, but now only 2 artisan families remain because more money can be made in other occupations. To Vietnam´s real credit, there is a significant and visible effort being made to save these dying artforms, including a strong linkage with the tourism sector.
Photo of two early printmakers, dated 1938. The wooden blocks used today are, in their majority, still the same designs.
Wooden printing blocks for sale in the shop (of course there was a shop, there always is a shop!)
The master printmaker´s workspace.
Embellished walls and ceiling of the wooden workshop. It was beautiful, like a converted temple. Framed on the wall are 4 original prints over 200 years old.
Inkpad covered with rice-based black ink which incessantly attracted flies. This pad was about 1 meter long.
The printmaker at work. Each color on the print is done separately, with the black outline being the last addition to complete the picture.
All of the inks used are made from roots, plants and minerals. The ricepaper used in printing is made by hand, then coated with a beautiful sheen using the mother-of-pearl insides of clam shells.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Da Notte
It's intense to be in a place where your family has a 400+ year history. I am a bit overwhelmed with a massive mix of emotions - tired, inspired, stressed, humbled, frustrated - the list goes on.
My Italian is thankfully coming back full-force, though I realize I am mixing it incessantly with Portuguese and Spanish. Imperfect communication is better than no communication at all, however, so I am trying to be content with my efforts.
Rico and I have been enjoying cheap, delicious bottles of Pro Secco (we found the Valdo we had at our wedding at the Euro Spar for a maddening 3 Euros per bottle), prosciutto San Daniele, figs (just me, in excess), hazelnuts, fresh milk, calamari fritti, pizza and wine. Not all at once, but certainly all delicious. I am already planning a gym regimine for when we return to Maputo!
Our family friend Marino took me, Rico and my Grammy on a car ride today through the Collio wine country, into Slovenia, stopping along the way for viewpoints and short tours of medieval churches and castles. We had a divine seafood lunch in Santa Croce, a small fishing village on the Adriatic coast just down from Trieste.
Tomorrow morning Rico and I are driving to Austria to visit his sister and her family. We will spend the weekend in Graz, then go to Vienna for a day trip on Monday. We are back in Italy on Tuesday, then heading home via Venice and Dubai on Thursday.
Until then, baci da Italia.
My Italian is thankfully coming back full-force, though I realize I am mixing it incessantly with Portuguese and Spanish. Imperfect communication is better than no communication at all, however, so I am trying to be content with my efforts.
Rico and I have been enjoying cheap, delicious bottles of Pro Secco (we found the Valdo we had at our wedding at the Euro Spar for a maddening 3 Euros per bottle), prosciutto San Daniele, figs (just me, in excess), hazelnuts, fresh milk, calamari fritti, pizza and wine. Not all at once, but certainly all delicious. I am already planning a gym regimine for when we return to Maputo!
Our family friend Marino took me, Rico and my Grammy on a car ride today through the Collio wine country, into Slovenia, stopping along the way for viewpoints and short tours of medieval churches and castles. We had a divine seafood lunch in Santa Croce, a small fishing village on the Adriatic coast just down from Trieste.
Tomorrow morning Rico and I are driving to Austria to visit his sister and her family. We will spend the weekend in Graz, then go to Vienna for a day trip on Monday. We are back in Italy on Tuesday, then heading home via Venice and Dubai on Thursday.
Until then, baci da Italia.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
In Hope that Roots Will Remain Roots
Rico and I are enjoying a relaxing vacation here in Peci, Savogna d'Isonzo district, Friuli Venezia Giulia province, Italy. We are far off the beaten path, away from all the stereotypical aspects of the tourist's Italia. This is how I like it.
Italy for me - at least this particular pre-alpine, cultural and national mish-mash, sometimes painfully provincial part of the country - is about family. It is about childhood memories of sunbathing at Grado, riding my pink bicycle Dino around the public gardens of Gorizia, collecting cherries and figs by the basketfull in the bosco behind my grandmother's house, and exploring every nook and cranny of the property that is filled with antiques and family history.
Italy is about the very real challenge that this magnificent home that has been in my family for hundreds of years must either be turned into some sort of self-sustainable enterprise, or we risk losing it to God knows what fate. My grandmother is in excellent health, but she is 86 years old and nobody is on this earth forever. Rico and I have been enjoying this mini-holiday immensely, but each night as we sit by the open fireplace and sip on a glass of wine, we engage in endless brainstorming about how to save the house(s) in Peci - there are three of them, after all: the old house, the new house, and a garden-less property across the street. We consider all the aspects that maintaining this family legacy would entail, slowly chewing over the possibilities and starting to ask ourselves if we are up to the task of taking on this challenge.
The other day my grandmother announced that she had a present, collectively, for us grandchildren, that is if we were at all remotely interested in what she had to offer. Rico nearly fell out of his chair when she said she'd like to give us my great-great-grandmother's old 1938 convertible Fiat! It is in remarkably good condition, still with the original white convertible top and shiny black exterior. For having sit for decades in such a humid climate, there is surprisingly little rust on the body. We opened up the car and had a look at the engine and then the dusty interior, and Rico and I knew that we were certainly interested in this gift. I don't know about my cousins Jeff and Lauren - we will have to consult them - but I imagine they might be interested in this restoration project as well.
Today Rico and I are going to hike the Sentiero Rilke, a beautiful coast-hugging path that connects the towns of Sistiana and Duino. We will have a mixed salad and fresh eggs for lunch that a neighbor brought by, then some raspberries and blueberries for dessert that we purchased yesterday in the mercado in Gorizia. I've been gorging myself on figs since we arrived, and keep promising myself that "this will be the last one. Just one more perfect fig, then I'll stop eating them." Apparently my promises to self aren't as iron-clad as they once were, as I'm now realizing that I'll probably make myself sick before I voluntarily stop wolfing down the divine fruits.
Being here undeniably feels like home in many ways. I'd hate to lose all of the memories and possibilities, but it is no easy situation that my family and I face. Yet again I am overwhelmed by the desire to clone myself so that there can be 4 or 5 Ali's running around the world: one for Peci, one for the Casa Rosa, one for New Mexico, one to be near my parents and dear relatives, one to be wherever there is good money to be made, and one to be permanently on a tropical beach. Until then, it is back to the brainstorming, in the desperate hope that inspiration will strike in just the right combination with financial prosperity, and that we will find a solution for all of these magnificent homes that I can't imagine living without.
Italy for me - at least this particular pre-alpine, cultural and national mish-mash, sometimes painfully provincial part of the country - is about family. It is about childhood memories of sunbathing at Grado, riding my pink bicycle Dino around the public gardens of Gorizia, collecting cherries and figs by the basketfull in the bosco behind my grandmother's house, and exploring every nook and cranny of the property that is filled with antiques and family history.
Italy is about the very real challenge that this magnificent home that has been in my family for hundreds of years must either be turned into some sort of self-sustainable enterprise, or we risk losing it to God knows what fate. My grandmother is in excellent health, but she is 86 years old and nobody is on this earth forever. Rico and I have been enjoying this mini-holiday immensely, but each night as we sit by the open fireplace and sip on a glass of wine, we engage in endless brainstorming about how to save the house(s) in Peci - there are three of them, after all: the old house, the new house, and a garden-less property across the street. We consider all the aspects that maintaining this family legacy would entail, slowly chewing over the possibilities and starting to ask ourselves if we are up to the task of taking on this challenge.
The other day my grandmother announced that she had a present, collectively, for us grandchildren, that is if we were at all remotely interested in what she had to offer. Rico nearly fell out of his chair when she said she'd like to give us my great-great-grandmother's old 1938 convertible Fiat! It is in remarkably good condition, still with the original white convertible top and shiny black exterior. For having sit for decades in such a humid climate, there is surprisingly little rust on the body. We opened up the car and had a look at the engine and then the dusty interior, and Rico and I knew that we were certainly interested in this gift. I don't know about my cousins Jeff and Lauren - we will have to consult them - but I imagine they might be interested in this restoration project as well.
Today Rico and I are going to hike the Sentiero Rilke, a beautiful coast-hugging path that connects the towns of Sistiana and Duino. We will have a mixed salad and fresh eggs for lunch that a neighbor brought by, then some raspberries and blueberries for dessert that we purchased yesterday in the mercado in Gorizia. I've been gorging myself on figs since we arrived, and keep promising myself that "this will be the last one. Just one more perfect fig, then I'll stop eating them." Apparently my promises to self aren't as iron-clad as they once were, as I'm now realizing that I'll probably make myself sick before I voluntarily stop wolfing down the divine fruits.
Being here undeniably feels like home in many ways. I'd hate to lose all of the memories and possibilities, but it is no easy situation that my family and I face. Yet again I am overwhelmed by the desire to clone myself so that there can be 4 or 5 Ali's running around the world: one for Peci, one for the Casa Rosa, one for New Mexico, one to be near my parents and dear relatives, one to be wherever there is good money to be made, and one to be permanently on a tropical beach. Until then, it is back to the brainstorming, in the desperate hope that inspiration will strike in just the right combination with financial prosperity, and that we will find a solution for all of these magnificent homes that I can't imagine living without.
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Feira Recovery
Santo Cristo. I'm worn out from the crafts fair, though I only did 4 1/2 of the 6 days myself since my friend A. was able to stand in for me during the time I had to be at the office. Still, I'm exhausted. My feet and legs hurt. I have a lot of materials to organize and tallying up to do. I am, however, basking in a pleasant glow of satisfaction that the fair went exceptionally well. I enjoyed good sales, and made several really interesting contacts. I am already looking forward to participating in the December fair (should I be selected again by the jury).
So, other than mad jewelry-making and super-intense selling, what have I been up to lately?
- 7:15am private pilates classes in our living room with a trainer who is an ex-olympic athlete from Ecuador. She is brutal, but in the best possible way. I've learned that I am nearly incapable of sitting up straight. The position I swore had my spine like a plank is apparently still curved and lacking. I'm humbled each time we have our classes by how inflexible my body has become.
- Enjoying an unexpected but very welcome mid-term houseguest. She is a volunteer here in Maputo for the next 6 months, and her homestay experience didn't quite go as planned. There were some safety issues that came up, and Rico and I gladly took her in when it became apparent that the organization that runs her volunteership was not interested in really helping, aside from the fact that they failed to recognize the very serious and real nature of the situation at hand. It's nice to have company, especially since Rico and I are going out of town for a few weeks and are glad to have a housesitter.
- We leave on Friday for a trip to Europe to visit my grandmother in Italy and Rico's sister and her family in Austria. I'm super excited. Airfare from Maputo to Joburg is ridiculously expensive right now (think US$450 per person for a 45-minute flight), so we're driving to South Africa to catch our flight. It should be about 6 or 7 hours, including the border. We'll leave our car at long-term parking in Joburg, which is a fraction of the cost of flying, even including gasoline.
- I'm looking forward to leaving my current consulting assignment at Big International Company. It's time to do something I find challenging as opposed to pushing paper and harrassing other people to properly do their jobs so I can, in turn, do mine. Viva October 1st when I start my new position. More on that later, once I've actually signed the contract, so that I don't inadvertently jinx myself.
- I am tired. Haven't been sleeping so well lately, mostly because our mattress has slowly morphed into the same unfortunate crater-shape we had to contend with in Chimoio. Other contributing factors are cats and mosquitoes. I'm looking forward to good sleep in the European fall weather for a few weeks.
- And on that note, time for bed. I've just finished my celebratory snifter of Amarula to mark the end of a successful fair, and Rico is yawning across the room. Boa noite!
So, other than mad jewelry-making and super-intense selling, what have I been up to lately?
- 7:15am private pilates classes in our living room with a trainer who is an ex-olympic athlete from Ecuador. She is brutal, but in the best possible way. I've learned that I am nearly incapable of sitting up straight. The position I swore had my spine like a plank is apparently still curved and lacking. I'm humbled each time we have our classes by how inflexible my body has become.
- Enjoying an unexpected but very welcome mid-term houseguest. She is a volunteer here in Maputo for the next 6 months, and her homestay experience didn't quite go as planned. There were some safety issues that came up, and Rico and I gladly took her in when it became apparent that the organization that runs her volunteership was not interested in really helping, aside from the fact that they failed to recognize the very serious and real nature of the situation at hand. It's nice to have company, especially since Rico and I are going out of town for a few weeks and are glad to have a housesitter.
- We leave on Friday for a trip to Europe to visit my grandmother in Italy and Rico's sister and her family in Austria. I'm super excited. Airfare from Maputo to Joburg is ridiculously expensive right now (think US$450 per person for a 45-minute flight), so we're driving to South Africa to catch our flight. It should be about 6 or 7 hours, including the border. We'll leave our car at long-term parking in Joburg, which is a fraction of the cost of flying, even including gasoline.
- I'm looking forward to leaving my current consulting assignment at Big International Company. It's time to do something I find challenging as opposed to pushing paper and harrassing other people to properly do their jobs so I can, in turn, do mine. Viva October 1st when I start my new position. More on that later, once I've actually signed the contract, so that I don't inadvertently jinx myself.
- I am tired. Haven't been sleeping so well lately, mostly because our mattress has slowly morphed into the same unfortunate crater-shape we had to contend with in Chimoio. Other contributing factors are cats and mosquitoes. I'm looking forward to good sleep in the European fall weather for a few weeks.
- And on that note, time for bed. I've just finished my celebratory snifter of Amarula to mark the end of a successful fair, and Rico is yawning across the room. Boa noite!
Saturday, September 06, 2008
Mozambican National Crafts Fair
I am happy to report that the fair has been going well. The first day was slow, as is the case in most long fairs, but sales yesterday and today were solid. Not quite on par with last year, but then again there is a long weekend in Mozambique for Victory Day, and many people have traveled to the beach or to South Africa. Nonetheless, I certainly have nothing to complain about, and my initial panic regarding pricing and the general insecurity described in my previous post have waned significantly. Things are going well, and I am happy.
There is something incredibly satisfying about making money by making something with your hands and then selling it yourself, face-to-face with the new owners who will enjoy a beautiful necklace or pair of earrings. I love telling people the stories behind my materials, my pieces, my inspiration.
If you are in or near Maputo, please stop by. The fair goes from 11am to 7pm through Tuesday. Hope to see some of you there!
Thursday, September 04, 2008
The Struggle to Remain Positive
I am proud to say that I am participating, for the second year in a row, in Mozambique's National Crafts Fair from September 4 - 9 at the Fortaleza de Maputo.
Participation in a relatively large fair is always a challenge, with many lessons to be learned. I think this is especially the case for me in regard to this particular fair, which is clearly branded and promoted as a "Made in Mozambique" fair. Granted, my jewelry is made in Mozambique and incorporates many local materials such as trade beads from Ilha de Moçambique, hardwoods from Nampula Province, horn and some stones. However, it is hard to look around at the fair participants and see that I am the only one who is not Mozambican (or at least born and raised here).
Last year I really struggled with being the only artesã estrangeira. I got a little bit of backlash from the other artisans, and the occasional snide comment, but looking back most of the pressure was self-imposed, and any "weirdness" I felt was a product of my own uncertainties and, to be honest, insecurities regarding culture, nationality and identity.
This year, my worries concentrate more around my product rather than who I am as an artist and a vendor. It never ceases to amaze me how powerful that inner critic can be - in particular when fueled by random outside commentary. My main concern is that my pieces are priced too high (very common among all artists, so I know I'm at least in good company here). Most of the participants in the fair go for the high volume x low price formula, and tend to fare quite well. However, while their raw materials and inputs may be cheaper than mine (wood vs. goldfilled wire; clay vs. turquoise), I also think their prices are very low because they are not adequately calculating their production costs and overheads.
Yes, I am the product of a business-minded family and an MBA. Yes, fundamentally, I look at the world through the lens of a businesswoman. It's almost funny applying this to an area like art, but it must be done. I calculate all my costs down to the penny, including labor, packaging, overhead and any anticipated fees or commission. I know my profit margins and have a reasonably effective formula for caluclating prices. I've been (semi-)seriously selling my jewelry now for just over 2 years, and it seems my little business is a sustainable one.
How-e-ver. Past successes, business-friendly formulas, and a rational approach to pricing do not, unfortunately, drive out the inner critic. That voice is ever-present in my mind. I compare my pieces to the other crafts at the fair and all I can see is how my booth is so much more expensive. I start to doubt the worth of my jewelry, and worry that ego is driving my pricing much more than any logical calculations of cost and markup. It gets worse when potential customers pass by and make comments like, "Is *that* the price?" Or, "It's nice, but too expensive."
I try to be a good saleswoman and tell people the stories behind my fusion jewelry. I talk about how the trade beads I use are over 300-years-old, how they originally came from Bohemia and Venice and were carried to Africa to be used as currency by traders, how now they wash ashore on Ilha de Moçambique after ships wrecked and spilled their cargos, and now boys sift through the sand on the island to find the tiny colored beads and string them together on fishing line. I tell people about the turquoise from New Mexico, the agate from Brazil, the silver that I hammer by hand, and the endless inches of wire that I form into knots to hold handmade glass beads.
If I am at the booth to tell the story of my jewelry, usually the prices aren't so much of an issue. People begin to understand the materials, the time, the love that go into making a particular piece.
The hard part is on days like today, where I am stuck at work and had to have my lovely friend A. do the fair on my behalf. She is great at selling, and used to be a fashion designer, however she doesn't know the full story of all the pieces and, perhaps most difficult, she doesn't speak Portuguese.
Rico and I just dropped by the fair to visit her and check in on my booth. It has been a slow one so far, though it is only halfway through Day 1. Still, it was difficult to see no sales, and to hear that a few ladies commented that my pieces were too expensive. All of this made my heart sink a bit, and the inner critic start singing out loudly, "I told you so!"
I know that worst-case scenario, the fair is a failure and I don't sell much (or even anything!). Life won't come screeching to a halt. I will still continue to create and make sales elsewhere. We all eventually find our audience. However, it's hard to sit with such insecurity, especially since I could give a friend in my exact shoes the mother of all pep talks and truly believe it. It's so hard sometimes to turn around and give that same support and positive thoughts to ourselves, but that's what I'm trying to do. After all, there are still 5 days to go!
UPDATE: I guess I needed to let these feelings out and name my insecurities. I just got a call from A. and she's just sold a nice big necklace set with turquoise and pearls! Yay!
Participation in a relatively large fair is always a challenge, with many lessons to be learned. I think this is especially the case for me in regard to this particular fair, which is clearly branded and promoted as a "Made in Mozambique" fair. Granted, my jewelry is made in Mozambique and incorporates many local materials such as trade beads from Ilha de Moçambique, hardwoods from Nampula Province, horn and some stones. However, it is hard to look around at the fair participants and see that I am the only one who is not Mozambican (or at least born and raised here).
Last year I really struggled with being the only artesã estrangeira. I got a little bit of backlash from the other artisans, and the occasional snide comment, but looking back most of the pressure was self-imposed, and any "weirdness" I felt was a product of my own uncertainties and, to be honest, insecurities regarding culture, nationality and identity.
This year, my worries concentrate more around my product rather than who I am as an artist and a vendor. It never ceases to amaze me how powerful that inner critic can be - in particular when fueled by random outside commentary. My main concern is that my pieces are priced too high (very common among all artists, so I know I'm at least in good company here). Most of the participants in the fair go for the high volume x low price formula, and tend to fare quite well. However, while their raw materials and inputs may be cheaper than mine (wood vs. goldfilled wire; clay vs. turquoise), I also think their prices are very low because they are not adequately calculating their production costs and overheads.
Yes, I am the product of a business-minded family and an MBA. Yes, fundamentally, I look at the world through the lens of a businesswoman. It's almost funny applying this to an area like art, but it must be done. I calculate all my costs down to the penny, including labor, packaging, overhead and any anticipated fees or commission. I know my profit margins and have a reasonably effective formula for caluclating prices. I've been (semi-)seriously selling my jewelry now for just over 2 years, and it seems my little business is a sustainable one.
How-e-ver. Past successes, business-friendly formulas, and a rational approach to pricing do not, unfortunately, drive out the inner critic. That voice is ever-present in my mind. I compare my pieces to the other crafts at the fair and all I can see is how my booth is so much more expensive. I start to doubt the worth of my jewelry, and worry that ego is driving my pricing much more than any logical calculations of cost and markup. It gets worse when potential customers pass by and make comments like, "Is *that* the price?" Or, "It's nice, but too expensive."
I try to be a good saleswoman and tell people the stories behind my fusion jewelry. I talk about how the trade beads I use are over 300-years-old, how they originally came from Bohemia and Venice and were carried to Africa to be used as currency by traders, how now they wash ashore on Ilha de Moçambique after ships wrecked and spilled their cargos, and now boys sift through the sand on the island to find the tiny colored beads and string them together on fishing line. I tell people about the turquoise from New Mexico, the agate from Brazil, the silver that I hammer by hand, and the endless inches of wire that I form into knots to hold handmade glass beads.
If I am at the booth to tell the story of my jewelry, usually the prices aren't so much of an issue. People begin to understand the materials, the time, the love that go into making a particular piece.
The hard part is on days like today, where I am stuck at work and had to have my lovely friend A. do the fair on my behalf. She is great at selling, and used to be a fashion designer, however she doesn't know the full story of all the pieces and, perhaps most difficult, she doesn't speak Portuguese.
Rico and I just dropped by the fair to visit her and check in on my booth. It has been a slow one so far, though it is only halfway through Day 1. Still, it was difficult to see no sales, and to hear that a few ladies commented that my pieces were too expensive. All of this made my heart sink a bit, and the inner critic start singing out loudly, "I told you so!"
I know that worst-case scenario, the fair is a failure and I don't sell much (or even anything!). Life won't come screeching to a halt. I will still continue to create and make sales elsewhere. We all eventually find our audience. However, it's hard to sit with such insecurity, especially since I could give a friend in my exact shoes the mother of all pep talks and truly believe it. It's so hard sometimes to turn around and give that same support and positive thoughts to ourselves, but that's what I'm trying to do. After all, there are still 5 days to go!
UPDATE: I guess I needed to let these feelings out and name my insecurities. I just got a call from A. and she's just sold a nice big necklace set with turquoise and pearls! Yay!
Yeah, Well I'm Bothered, Too
I was supposed to lead a task group meeting this afternoon at the Big International Company where I have been consulting since February. We need to provide descriptions of all the SMEs (small and medium enterprises) in which BIC has invested in Mozambique. It's not a difficult task, but it requires coordination to get all the financial, technical assistance and other information together.
Anyhow, I was just informed that we won't be able to have the meeting because my colleague Ratinha didn't come to work today.
"Ela está incomodada," my colleague Tortoise told me.
This is one of the best Mozambican euphemisms of all time. 'Estar incomodada' literally means 'to be bothered', but in this instance it is code for 'she has her period'.
That's right - lovely Ratinha didn't come to work today because of the devastatingly serious reason that SHE HAS HER PERIOD. And the whole freaking office knows. She didn't just call in sick or say she was taking a personal day. Nope, miss Rata told her boss and the secretary quite openly that she was "bothered" and they all understood immediately that the poor dear wouldn't be in today. In fact, perhaps she wouldn't be recovered from her bothersome condition until early next week.
The worst part is that Ratinha is no exception to the rule, and it seems to be standard practice here for women to call in "bothered" to work and for employers to nary bat an eyelash!
I tried to reschedule the task meeting to no avail. "Epa," Tortoise said when I suggested we hold the meeting on Tuesday (Monday is a public holiday), "talvez ela ainda esteja incomodada até lá..." Yeah, no use trying to schedule something 4 days in the future because, depending on Rata's cycle, perhaps she will STILL BE ON HER PERIOD at that point and therefore out of the office!
I used to have really painful periods, and still do on occasion. I know what it is like to want to curl up in a ball and watch tv and eat chocolate all damn day. But I cannot wrap my mind around the fact that a woman having her period in Mozambique is license for 4 to 7 days out of the office, no questions asked!!! Granted, not all females pull this card here, but still - freaking insane, no?
Anyhow, I sure feel less guilty that I've been taking half-days off to work on my jewelry business and get ready for the Mozambican National Crafts Fair. At least my time out of the office is 1) used productively, and 2) UNPAID.
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